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Plan Your Asparagus Patch

A meal of fresh asparagus picked from the garden and brought
into the house for a quick sauté in butter and a sprinkle with salt is one of
the first signs of spring in my garden.  The
first indication that anything is growing in my asparagus patch is the green
spears that push through the mulch and look like the ones you buy in the
grocery store.  After I pick the
asparagus for about 6 weeks for my mature patch, I stop picking and allow the
plants to grow.  The spears grow into 3
feet tall feathery bushes with foliage that resembles that of a very
fine-leafed fern, and visitors to my garden are often mystified as to the
identity of those strange plants.
 
Garden centers and catalogs sell seed year-round, and they
sell crowns, which are dormant asparagus roots, in the late winter and early
spring.  Start seeds in early
spring.  Some common varieties are the
heirloom “Mary Washington,” which has male and female plants, “Jersey Knight,”
a hybrid with all-male plants, and “Purple Passion,” a hybrid with purple spears.  All-male plants produce bigger harvests than
female plants because they do not waste energy making seeds.
Crowns, although they are the most expensive way to start
asparagus, produce an asparagus harvest more quickly than plants started from
seed.  Plant them as soon as you obtain
them about six inches deep.  After
planting and watering the crowns, cover the bed with 4 to 6 inches of mulch,
leaving a small opening on top of every crown for the first tiny spears to
emerge.  After the spears emerge, tuck
mulch around the spears.  In subsequent
years, mature plants have no trouble pushing spears through the mulch, so cover
the entire bed with mulch. 
Unlike the asparagus you see in the grocery store, homegrown
asparagus varies in diameter, but all tastes the same.  Harvest asparagus when it is 6 to 8 inches
tall by pulling over the stalk until it snaps. 
If I don’t have enough for a meal, I store spears for a few days in the
refrigerator, with the ends wrapped in a moist paper towel in a closed plastic bag. 
Harvest no asparagus the first and second springs after
planting if the plants were started from seed because the plant needs to devote
all its energy to growing larger. 
Finally, the third spring, harvest asparagus for a couple of weeks.  When the newly sprouted spears look
consistently pencil-skinny, it is time to stop harvesting.  In subsequent years, harvest until the spears
become skinny, usually after 6 to 8 weeks of harvest. 
Harvest a few spears the second year after planting if the
plants were started from crowns, and harvest for 6 to 8 weeks in subsequent
years, but stop when the spears begin to be skinny.  The remaining spears will grow into ferny
little trees to adorn the garden until frost. Harvesting for longer than
recommended weakens the plants.
Winter is a great time to prepare an asparagus patch.  The weather is pleasant for work, and fall
leaves are available for mulch.  Asparagus
is one of the easiest vegetables to grow, but planting it does require some
planning since a healthy asparagus patch can produce spears for decades.  Choose a site with well-drained soil in full
sun. 
Enrich the soil with compost, organic fertilizer, and lime
if the soil requires it.  Eradicate any
serious weed problems before planting because tilling the soil among the plants
is impossible, and removing invasive weed roots from among the spears is a
tedious job.  If you don’t have enough
room to devote an entire bed to asparagus, mix in some plants with your perennial
flowers.  Asparagus comes up at about the
same time spring bulbs bloom, and the mature foliage complements flowers. 
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Build a Cold Frame and Harvest Vegetables All Winter

If the cold temperatures a few weeks ago damaged your garden
plants, perhaps it’s time for you to build a cold frame.  Because the runners of a nearby blackberry
bush scurried under the base of the cold frame and sprouted a new plant inside
the open box, and I procrastinated about removing it, I managed to plant my
cold frame just before the recent cold snap. 
However, the protective environment of the cold frame will cause the
seeds to germinate, and I’ll soon have happy lettuces and spinach for the rest
of the winter.
Unless snow falls or the temperature remains below freezing
all day, which rarely happens here in SC,  I open the cover of the cold frame every
morning.  Winter vegetables do not enjoy
temperatures much above 70°F;  think
about how easily your car heats to that temperature and beyond on an otherwise
chilly day if it’s parked in the sun. 
My cold frame

My husband and I made my cold frame, which is a box covered
with glass, with a discarded shower door. 
Any glass or Plexiglas door or window would work; the glass allows sunshine
and heat to reach the plants inside the cold frame.  If you were going to open the lid daily to
allow sunlight to reach the plants, even an opaque lid would work.  The plants will be fine in the shade for a
day or two if very cold weather threatens. 
After you raise the lid, make sure to attach it to the ground in some
way so that strong gusts of wind do not suddenly close it and shatter the
glass. 
We made the sides of my cold frame out of treated
lumber.  We caulked the joints and put
some weather-stripping along the top of the frame to prevent drafts.  The back of the cold frame is about 18 inches
high, and it slopes down to the front at about a 40-degree angle toward the
southern sky; the front is about 8 inches high. 
This slope is supposed to maximize the amount of captured sunlight.
If carpentry is not your forte, use stacked hay bales,
concrete blocks, or landscape timbers.  My
mother surrounded some of her vulnerable plants with black plastic bags full of
leaves and found they provided sufficient insulation to protect them from much
damage, especially if she draped a sheet of plastic over the top of the circle
of bags.  Plug as many cracks as you can.
Place your cold frame directly on the ground, fill your cold
frame with compost-enriched soil, and plant the seeds or transplants.  Because of the greenhouse-like moist
environment, seeds sprout quickly and are the most economical choice.  Water the soil when it begins to dry out and
fertilize the plants as you would in your garden. 
The best plants for a cold frame are lettuces, spinach,
collards, and other cool-season greens. 
Carrots, beets, and parsnips also like the protected environment.  Depending on your cold frame’s interior
height, you might also be able to grow broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage.  This winter, I am growing broccoli inside a
cold frame without a lid, because it shattered in a wind gust, and I am
protecting them with a sheet of plastic.
Gardening supply companies carry prefabricated cold frames; harvesting
your own salad greens instead of buying them will offset the purchase price
quickly.
 

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Poor, Poor, Mr. Cuteypants, You Crazy Guinea

I wish my guineas, The Pearl and Mr. Cuteypants (named by my
6-year-old daughter) would learn to fly on purpose.  It shouldn’t be that hard, should it?  Most birds do it all the time.  I imagine normal birds think about flying the way we think
about walking: “Oh, dear, there’s a dog I need to escape.  I will fly to safety.”  They fly to safety.  “Now the dog is gone, so I’ll fly back to my
nest.”  They fly home. 

Guineas apparently lack such logical thought, because nearly
every day I have to help them solve some problem.  A few weeks ago,  I went out after dark to close the
hen house door.  The guineas were absent.  I found The Pearl inside the 6-foot-tall fence
surrounding the garden, and I found Mr. Cuteypants outside the fence opposite
The Pearl.  Both birds had snuggled
themselves on the ground, separated only by the fence wire, for the night, ignoring the supposedly powerful
instincts they have to fly up to roost at night. 

The Pearl and Mr. Cuteypants
I managed to chase Mr. Cuteypants into the pen with the
chickens, but I did not even try to get The Pearl out of the garden and into
the pen.  I still have a scar on my leg
from the last time I tried to remove him from the garden at night.  The next morning, The Pearl paced along the
fence in agitation because he was not with the rest of the birds.  I went out into the garden and chased him
(keeping a safe distance from his claws) until he was sufficiently startled to
fly over the fence and out of the garden.

Another night, I had some of the chickens inside my fenced garden to do some clean-up work of frost-damaged bean plants.  I put up a temporary fence to keep the chickens away from growing plants and to direct the chickens to sleep in the guinea castle my husband built in which the guineas refused to sleep.  Somehow, because I put their favorite chicken, pictured below beside them on the roost, in the pen inside the garden,  they figured out how to get inside the walled garden, inside the temporary fence, and into the guinea house.

They got into the guinea house, but do you think they could figure out how to get back OUT of the garden in the morning?  

One evening, as I walked across the yard, I was astonished to see the guineas fly across the yard and onto the roof of the house.  They seemed as surprised as I was by their sudden ability to fly to such heights. They walked around for awhile on the roof, and, despite my worries that they wouldn’t figure out how to get off the roof and would stay there, squawking, all night, they did manage to figure out how to get off the roof.

 

The guineas appear to become alarmed about something and fly
out of the pen, without conscious thought. 
Then they circle the pen, trying desperately to fit through the
electrified netting (which apparently does not shock them) the way they were
able to when they were smaller.  Now they
cannot fit through the holes, and they cannot remember how in the world they
managed to get out of the pen.  My
husband says I should just leave them alone, and eventually they will figure
out how to get back into the pen.  That
may be true, but I do feel sorry for them when they are separated from the rest
of the flock and pace around the pen for hours while they try desperately to
get back inside. 

This is when I started worrying about whether or not they could figure out how to get off the roof…

Every day I say something along the lines of, “Poor Mr.
Cuteypants.  You really are too stupid to
live.  God bless you.”  Or, “Mr. Cuteypants, you goofy bird, stop
that!”  My mother reminds Mr. Cuteypants
that he was once in the mouth of a blacksnake and that he should behave.  He (she) doesn’t care.

Names notwithstanding, I think Mr. Cuteypants is a female,
because he (she) calls “buck-wheat!” or “pot-black!” when something unusual
happens.  The Pearl has larger wattles
than Mr. Cuteypants, and does not say “buck-wheat.”  He also tends to bully the other birds.  Mr. Cuteypants scolds visitors to my home,
but he knows who lives here and doesn’t scold the residents.

My husband saw The Pearl running across the yard, with Mr. Cuteypants following behind him.  Poor Mr. Cuteypants looked away, and The Pearl stopped running.  Mr. Cuteypants rear-ended The Pearl, resulting in a squawking mass of feathers flying into the air as they scared each other.  I saw Mr. Cuteypants trip over a root and fall on his face.

Mr. Cuteypants doesn’t scold our dachshunds either, but he knows
deer don’t belong in the yard.  How he knows all this
but he cannot figure out how to fly on purpose is beyond me.  The existence of guineas, with their crazy
behavior and wild punk rock spiked neck hair, are, along with dachshunds, proof
that God has a sense of humor.

This week, The Pearl redeemed himself for eternity for all his antics by chasing a hawk out of the chicken pen.  A hawk descended into the pen, and all the chickens ran into the chicken house.  Mr. Cuteypants flew out of the pen in agitation, but The Pearl fought against the hawk, scaring him away where he tried to recover his pride about twenty feet off the ground in a pine tree.  The Pearl flew up near the hawk, continuing the attack, and the hawk flew away into the woods.  Of course, at bedtime, I had to hold up the fence so The Pearl could slip under the fence and back into the pen with the chickens.

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“Uh-oh, Mommy, I Breaked the Egg!”

Hens lay fewer eggs when they days get shorter; their bodies tell them it’s time to rest, just as we feel the need to stay inside and rest when daylight fades early.  Yesterday, I got two eggs from my eight hens; today I got one egg, and that one egg will not make it to the table.

My three-year-old daughter wanted to carry the egg, which she did, and to hold it (we didn’t go directly to the house) for awhile.  I tried to get her to lay it down, but she wasn’t interested in doing that, and I didn’t want to make an issue of the egg.  Three-year-olds can be careful, right?

Then the predictable conversation occurred:  “I not break it, Mommy.”  “Okay, good.  Be careful!”

“Uh-oh Mommy, I break it a little bit.  There’s a crack.  It not open up.”  “Okay, be careful!”

In the interim I was trying to get a fence up so the chickens didn’t destroy my garden, and was shooing away a chicken that was pecking at my Brussels sprout plant.

“UH-OH MOMMY!! (egg streams through the fingers).  I breaked it!!”

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Plant Bulbs of Spring-Blooming Flowers Now

Each spring, I look forward to the arrival of the flowers
that emerge from bulbs I have nearly forgotten while the earth covers them for
more than six months out of the year.  After
the flowers bloom, I leave the messy foliage to grow, because that is the way
the bulb obtains nutrients for next year’s flowers, until the foliage melts
into the soil and the exuberance of the summer garden covers the area.
I enjoy driving country roads in the spring and seeing the
clumps of bulbs marking the sites of long-rotted houses.  I imagine a farm wife stepping out the door
one fall day to plant them with apron pockets full of bulbs a friend or
relative gave her, for the farm wife in my imagination would not have enough
extra money to spend it on something as frivolous as flowers.
She kneels in the soil, digs a spot for the bulbs, and tucks
them beneath the soil.  In spring, she
awaits their green shoots as they push through the soil, and admonishes her
many children to stay out of the flowerbed. 
However far they may travel from home as adults, the scent and sight of
those sorts of flowers forever remind her children of spring in their mother’s
garden.
One of my babies is puzzled by this flower as we enjoy the spring bulbs
Over the years, the bulbs multiply. While the bulbs are
dormant, in the summer and early fall, she digs the bulbs and passes along the
bulbs to some other wife, or she sends her newly married daughters or
daughters-in-law with bulbs to decorate their gardens.  Depending on the bulb, she might even decide
that that she has more than she knows what to do with, so she digs bulbs and
tosses them over the fence into the cow pasture, where they put out roots,
grow, and bloom.
My grandmother tossed some bulbs over the fence into the cow
pasture many years before I was born, because she needed them out of her garden
and had no one else to give them to, and there they grew and bloomed.  We call them “Butter and Eggs” and the
ruffled blooms are tinged with green.  I
dug some bulbs out of the cow pasture and brought them home to my garden.
Bulbs decorate the winter garden.  The white plastic protected the winter vegetables, and it must be a warm day because the lid on the cold frame is open at the rear center of the photo.
My mother has beautiful white daffodils by the back door,
and some more tiny yellow ones by the basement steps.  I have helped myself to those bulbs, and I wrestled
a hole in the hard clay at my house to put in the bulbs.  Now my bulbs need thinning, and I will pass
bulbs along to someone, or I’ll expand my plantings of
bulbs.

Daffodils turn towards the sun, and unfortunately for the situation of this flowerbed, that means they turn away from the   viewer of the flowerbed

I have planted daffodils throughout my woods, and in early spring,
the woods are speckled with spots of yellow and white flowers.  If you want daffodils, obtain some from a
friend or buy some at the garden center. 
Daffodils are reliably perennial, or come back every year, here.  Deer do not usually eat them, and so they are
the perfect bulb to plant nearly anywhere in full sun.

Another baby thinks daffodils might be tasty (don’t worry, I didn’t let her munch down)

Tulips are beautiful, but they do not reliably come back
here because our winters are not cold enough to give them the winter chill they
need to prosper.  I plant them anyway,
and encourage them to bloom by either putting them in the refrigerator, inside
a paper bag, away from ripening fruit for about six week before I plant them, or
by planting them in a container outside where they get cold temperatures
without the insulating effects of the earth. 
Although the aforementioned farmwife would think me extravagantly
wasteful, I usually treat them as annuals, and I pull them out and discard them
when they have finished blooming.