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Plan Your Asparagus Patch

A meal of fresh asparagus picked from the garden and brought
into the house for a quick sauté in butter and a sprinkle with salt is one of
the first signs of spring in my garden.  The
first indication that anything is growing in my asparagus patch is the green
spears that push through the mulch and look like the ones you buy in the
grocery store.  After I pick the
asparagus for about 6 weeks for my mature patch, I stop picking and allow the
plants to grow.  The spears grow into 3
feet tall feathery bushes with foliage that resembles that of a very
fine-leafed fern, and visitors to my garden are often mystified as to the
identity of those strange plants.
 
Garden centers and catalogs sell seed year-round, and they
sell crowns, which are dormant asparagus roots, in the late winter and early
spring.  Start seeds in early
spring.  Some common varieties are the
heirloom “Mary Washington,” which has male and female plants, “Jersey Knight,”
a hybrid with all-male plants, and “Purple Passion,” a hybrid with purple spears.  All-male plants produce bigger harvests than
female plants because they do not waste energy making seeds.
Crowns, although they are the most expensive way to start
asparagus, produce an asparagus harvest more quickly than plants started from
seed.  Plant them as soon as you obtain
them about six inches deep.  After
planting and watering the crowns, cover the bed with 4 to 6 inches of mulch,
leaving a small opening on top of every crown for the first tiny spears to
emerge.  After the spears emerge, tuck
mulch around the spears.  In subsequent
years, mature plants have no trouble pushing spears through the mulch, so cover
the entire bed with mulch. 
Unlike the asparagus you see in the grocery store, homegrown
asparagus varies in diameter, but all tastes the same.  Harvest asparagus when it is 6 to 8 inches
tall by pulling over the stalk until it snaps. 
If I don’t have enough for a meal, I store spears for a few days in the
refrigerator, with the ends wrapped in a moist paper towel in a closed plastic bag. 
Harvest no asparagus the first and second springs after
planting if the plants were started from seed because the plant needs to devote
all its energy to growing larger. 
Finally, the third spring, harvest asparagus for a couple of weeks.  When the newly sprouted spears look
consistently pencil-skinny, it is time to stop harvesting.  In subsequent years, harvest until the spears
become skinny, usually after 6 to 8 weeks of harvest. 
Harvest a few spears the second year after planting if the
plants were started from crowns, and harvest for 6 to 8 weeks in subsequent
years, but stop when the spears begin to be skinny.  The remaining spears will grow into ferny
little trees to adorn the garden until frost. Harvesting for longer than
recommended weakens the plants.
Winter is a great time to prepare an asparagus patch.  The weather is pleasant for work, and fall
leaves are available for mulch.  Asparagus
is one of the easiest vegetables to grow, but planting it does require some
planning since a healthy asparagus patch can produce spears for decades.  Choose a site with well-drained soil in full
sun. 
Enrich the soil with compost, organic fertilizer, and lime
if the soil requires it.  Eradicate any
serious weed problems before planting because tilling the soil among the plants
is impossible, and removing invasive weed roots from among the spears is a
tedious job.  If you don’t have enough
room to devote an entire bed to asparagus, mix in some plants with your perennial
flowers.  Asparagus comes up at about the
same time spring bulbs bloom, and the mature foliage complements flowers. 
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Build a Cold Frame and Harvest Vegetables All Winter

If the cold temperatures a few weeks ago damaged your garden
plants, perhaps it’s time for you to build a cold frame.  Because the runners of a nearby blackberry
bush scurried under the base of the cold frame and sprouted a new plant inside
the open box, and I procrastinated about removing it, I managed to plant my
cold frame just before the recent cold snap. 
However, the protective environment of the cold frame will cause the
seeds to germinate, and I’ll soon have happy lettuces and spinach for the rest
of the winter.
Unless snow falls or the temperature remains below freezing
all day, which rarely happens here in SC,  I open the cover of the cold frame every
morning.  Winter vegetables do not enjoy
temperatures much above 70°F;  think
about how easily your car heats to that temperature and beyond on an otherwise
chilly day if it’s parked in the sun. 
My cold frame

My husband and I made my cold frame, which is a box covered
with glass, with a discarded shower door. 
Any glass or Plexiglas door or window would work; the glass allows sunshine
and heat to reach the plants inside the cold frame.  If you were going to open the lid daily to
allow sunlight to reach the plants, even an opaque lid would work.  The plants will be fine in the shade for a
day or two if very cold weather threatens. 
After you raise the lid, make sure to attach it to the ground in some
way so that strong gusts of wind do not suddenly close it and shatter the
glass. 
We made the sides of my cold frame out of treated
lumber.  We caulked the joints and put
some weather-stripping along the top of the frame to prevent drafts.  The back of the cold frame is about 18 inches
high, and it slopes down to the front at about a 40-degree angle toward the
southern sky; the front is about 8 inches high. 
This slope is supposed to maximize the amount of captured sunlight.
If carpentry is not your forte, use stacked hay bales,
concrete blocks, or landscape timbers.  My
mother surrounded some of her vulnerable plants with black plastic bags full of
leaves and found they provided sufficient insulation to protect them from much
damage, especially if she draped a sheet of plastic over the top of the circle
of bags.  Plug as many cracks as you can.
Place your cold frame directly on the ground, fill your cold
frame with compost-enriched soil, and plant the seeds or transplants.  Because of the greenhouse-like moist
environment, seeds sprout quickly and are the most economical choice.  Water the soil when it begins to dry out and
fertilize the plants as you would in your garden. 
The best plants for a cold frame are lettuces, spinach,
collards, and other cool-season greens. 
Carrots, beets, and parsnips also like the protected environment.  Depending on your cold frame’s interior
height, you might also be able to grow broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage.  This winter, I am growing broccoli inside a
cold frame without a lid, because it shattered in a wind gust, and I am
protecting them with a sheet of plastic.
Gardening supply companies carry prefabricated cold frames; harvesting
your own salad greens instead of buying them will offset the purchase price
quickly.