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Timeline for Sowing Seed this Spring

People frequently ask me about the correct time to plant different vegetables and fruits.
Planting times are a subject that confused me when I began gardening.   The guidance offered by seed companies and gardening magazines is somewhat vague because the writers want
the information to appeal to everyone. 
The instruction that bewildered me the most was “Sow seed as soon as the ground can be worked in spring.” I can work the ground in my garden in South Carolina nearly every day of
the year.  If the ground does freeze, it often thaws by early afternoon, and within a week’s time from the cold night, we will usually have a day in the sixties. Garden writers, I have found, often live in colder climates where they have many months in which they cannot garden because the ground is covered with ice and snow.  They are inside, writing about gardening and trying not to think about us fortunate Southerners outside, on a lovely January day, gardening.
To figure out planting dates, know frost dates.  In the Midlands of SC, our first fall frost usually occurs around November 1, although frost can happen a couple of weeks before or after that date. 
Our last spring frost usually occurs around April 1, give or take a couple of weeks.  To figure out planting dates, decide whether you will sow the seed directly in the garden or whether you will first sow it inside and transplant it outdoors later. 
For example, it is best to start tomato plants from seed inside the house under grow lights so they will be big enough to transplant outside when the danger of frost has passed.  The package says to start them about six weeks before the last frost, which means I usually start my tomato seeds inside around Valentine’s Day. 
I also start peppers, eggplant, and broccoli inside under lights.  I sow green beans directly in the garden, and so I do not sow them until April.  I sow almost all other vegetables directly in
the garden. 
In January, sow cabbage and broccoli indoors.  In February, or six to eight weeks before the
last spring frost, sow broccoli, cabbage, spinach and other leafy greens, bulb onions, tomatoes, peppers, basil, & eggplant indoors.  Start sweet potato slips indoors.  Sow leafy greens, carrots, parsnips, beets, and English peas outdoors.  Plant Irish potatoes outside.  In March, continue
sowing the crops as described above.  Transplant cool-weather crops outside when they are large enough.
In April, sow leafy greens outdoors, but know the heat we often have in late May will cause them to bolt and to become bitter.  However, we might have a cool spring, and so planting the greens later is worth the risk. Transplant broccoli and cabbage into the garden, but it is too late to
start them from seed because hot weather will arrive before they mature.  Plant green beans, lima beans, crowder peas, corn, okra, squash, and cucumber seeds outside.
In mid-April, or sooner if you are brave, set out tomato, pepper, and eggplant transplants in the garden. Just remember that in 2007 the temperature dropped to about 24°F on the
morning of April 7.  That spring I had not set out my tomatoes yet, but many gardeners lost their crop.  I have planted tomatoes unadvisedly early, as an experiment, and covered them with plastic, but nothing besides a heated greenhouse can protect them from that sort of cold. 
Although some plants can survive a light frost, tomatoes cannot.  I wait until mid-April to set out mine; just because the big-box stores have transplants for sale does not mean it’s time to set them out in the garden. 
Throughout the summer, make successive plantings of beans, squash, and cucumbers.  Start some more tomato seeds indoors to set out in August for a fall crop.  In August, plant cool-season crops like beets, carrots, leafy greens, broccoli, and cabbage in the garden for a fall
and winter crop. 
Draw your crop plan on a piece of paper so you can put new crops in the spaces vacated by spent crops, and make your garden its most productive.  Purchase your seeds for the spring, because it is time to get to work.
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Color and Blooms in My January Garden


Don’t hate me because I live in South Carolina.  The temperature was 70 degrees yesterday, and I opened the windows to let in the warm January air.  This winter has been unusually mild, but even in colder winters, something blooms or provides interesting foliage every day of the year in my garden.  Take advantage of late winter days to put some plants in your garden for blooms next winter. 

Hellebore blooms in the January garden

Golden Threadleaf Falsecypress

I have admired Golden Threadleaf Falsecypress shrubs for awhile, because they provide a hard-to-find chartreuse color in the garden. They are expensive, but I found one on sale this fall, and I love the constant color and texture.

Winter Jasmine

Winter Jasmine, or Jasminum nudiflorum, has been blooming since before Christmas. Temperatures in the twenties or teens may damage the blooms, but more will soon appear to replace them. It spreads by inserting the tips of its branches into the soil and forming roots, and it’s something to keep an eye on in the garden so it doesn’t take over. I have kept it under control by cutting it back in the late fall and pulling up any babies that rooted. Find a friend with one and they will give you baby plants.  Winter jasmine reminds me of forsythia, but it blooms earlier than forsythia, which usually saves its blooms for late February.
Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’

I have been pleasantly surprised by the Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue.’ Not only does it bloom most of the summer, perhaps taking a small break during the hottest months, but it also continues blooming throughout the winter. It might stop for a little while during weather in the teens, but our weather this winter in the twenties have not bothered it. It only asks to be deadheaded every few weeks so it doesn’t become confused and think its work is finished for the year. Like all the previously discussed plants, it likes full sun.
Every year I plant daffodils for spring color.  These are the earliest ones.
Pansies live through our winters, and although they may become tattered from cold weather,  after I trim them and fertilize them, they bloom until hot weather kills them.
Mahonia

Thirty years ago my great aunt Minnie brought the great-grandparents of this Mahonia, or Oregon Grape, to my grandmother from her home in Oregon. It was happy in the woods of northwestern South Carolina, and had so many babies, propagated by seed, that everyone in the family and many neighbors have them.  They are not invasive, though; they reproduce slowly and surprise the gardener with an occasional new shrub.  My grandmother helped me dig this shrub from her woods before she died several years ago, and every time I see it I think of her. It is native to Oregon, and it likes moist soil and shade; don’t plant it in the full sun in South Carolina. The thorny leaves keep the deer from munching on it, usually. It’s not quite in bloom yet, but the buds are ready to burst, and I know spring is arriving in my garden when I hear a bee buzzing and find honeybees enjoying the Mahonia’s nectar on a warm winter day.
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It’s Time to Read Seed Catalogs by the Fire

It has been so warm this winter, with the exception of a few
days last week, that I have not been able to engage in one of my favorite winter
activities: reading seed catalogs while I sit by the fire.  I have still read them, of course, but without
a fire, something seems to be missing.  While
I enjoy the fire, I organize the seed I have left from last year, and I decide
which varieties I will order for the garden this year.     Packages of seeds cost a few dollars, and it
is easy to experiment with many different varieties of plants to figure out
which ones are happiest in your garden.    
Two years ago, I ordered some fruit trees and bushes from
Stark Brothers’ Nursery (
www.starkbros.com or
1.800.325.4180) and I am pleased with their products and service.  As soon as I get my soil ready, I will order
some more fruit trees so I can expand my orchard. 

I do not think I have room to cram in any more perennials
now, but perennials from Bluestone Perennials, (
www.bluestoneperennials.com or
1.800.852.5243) fill my garden. They no longer sell perennials in three-packs; instead,
they sell one larger plant for a lower price than the three packs.  The catalog gives cultural information on nearly
any perennial commonly grown in the US.

I have not ever actually ordered anything from White Flower
Farm,
www.whiteflowerfarm.com or
1.800.503.9624, but their catalog has unusual and beautiful plants.  I found out about them from a Martha Stewart
book years ago, and they appear to be a good, although expensive, nursery.

Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply (www.GrowOrganic.com or 1.888.784.1722), is
a California company with nearly every gardening/farming item imaginable.  Peaceful Valley’s catalog is good for
information, obscure organic pest control products, and season-extension
products. 

For seeds, I order from Seed Savers Exchange, (www.seedsaversexchange.org or (562)
382.5990), a nonprofit organization from Iowa which sells exclusively heirloom
seeds and John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds (
www.kitchengardenseeds.com or
(860) 567.6086), a catalog that is a work of art and provides detailed planting
and culinary information. 

The only truly local seed supplier is Heavenly Seed LLC (www.heavenlyseed.net or 864.209.8283) out
of Anderson.  It provides the least
glamorous catalog but the most generous amounts of seed for the money; I buy
most of my seeds from Heavenly Seed.    

Johnny’s Seeds, www.johnnyseeds.com
gives good cultural information for gardeners, and Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds,
(417.924.8917 or
www.rareseeds.com, has
one of the largest collections of heirloom seeds around.  Pinetree Garden Seeds (207.926.3400 or
www.superseeds.com) sells small,
inexpensive packets of seeds that are useful for small gardens or for trying
out many varieties of seeds. 

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Plans for the New Year in the Garden

I have all the usual New Year’s Resolutions many people have, which I will not share here in case I do not achieve them, but I will share my
plans for the garden.  Gardening resolutions have to take the form of plans, not resolutions, because there are so many factors beyond the gardener’s control that may prevent their accomplishment, factors besides, “Well, that cake looked so tasty I just had to eat it.”   Planning the garden in the winter is a
wonderful occupation, because the hot days and hard work are a long way off.  My plans are usually too ambitious, but I enjoy planning most when it includes some dreams.
This year, I have a large area that pine trees covered until we had them cut in September.  I sowed it to rye grass and clover, and I will move the chickens onto the grass, let them eat the cover crop and fertilize the area. The trees grew in clay, and the soil will need some work before it is ready for my orchard.  I plan to till in the cover crops the chickens leave behind to give the soil organic matter.  I do not know when I will get the apple, pear, cherry, and peach trees planted, but I will work towards the eventual orchard this year.  An orchard is an investment in time and money, and I want to make sure the soil is ready, and I
want to make sure I choose the best varieties of trees for my area.
I have read about grafting non-disease resistant heirloom tomatoes onto disease-resistant rootstock. For example, I could graft San Marzano tomatoes, which I want to grow to make sauce out of, but which die quickly in the garden, onto the lower stem and roots of the Celebrity tomato, which resists disease, and get the disease resistance of the Celebrity and the fruit of the San Marzano.  I saw grafted plants for sale in a gardening magazine for $7 each, and they will become expensive if I buy many.  I will spend the winter reading about grafting tomatoes, and will experiment with them.  I did achieve one of my perennial gardening
goals last summer: I grew enough tomatoes to can to last me through the winter.  Every year is different, though, so I am always looking for ways to outsmart pests and disease. 
I want to grow enough Irish potatoes, onions, garlic, and sweet potatoes so I do not have to buy any. The onions and garlic are in the ground now, and I will have to plant the Irish potatoes later this winter, and the sweet potatoes in the spring.  I have grown more than enough garlic for us for several years, and I will keep trying to accomplish the other goals.
What are your gardening plans?  If you have never gardened, it is a great time to begin one.  Do all the heavy digging and soil preparation now, when it is cold, and when warm weather comes you can leisurely plant your garden.  And, working in the garden will complement your resolutions to lose weight and
exercise more, while you’re having more fun than you would on a treadmill at the gym.  Next time I’ll write about my favorite seed catalogs and plant resources, and you can order some catalogs or look at some websites and plan your garden this winter. 
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Hellebore Days at Piccadilly Farm

From a press release  by Piccadilly Farm:
The public is invited to stroll the grounds of Piccadilly Farm to view thousands of Hellebores (Lenten Roses) in full bloom on Friday and Saturday, March 2 and 3, from 10-4.  Forget the gloom of winter and welcome the arrival of spring while viewing an amazing mass display of colorful flowers in beautiful shades of white, pink, rose, burgundy, and purple.  Hellebore Days at Piccadilly Farm has been featured in numerous publications including the New York Times.

Hellebores in bloom in Mary Ann’s garden

Hellebores are an excellent hardy evergreen ground cover for dry shady gardens and flower in late winter when few other plants are in bloom.  Virtually maintenance free, Hellebores are easy to grow and once established, they sneer at drought, do not need irrigation, and are ignored by deer and other pests.  For those unable to attend the event, the Hellebores will continue to be lovely through March.  This weekend begins the spring retail season for the nursery which will be open each Friday and Saturday through the end of May.  Hellebores will be available for purchase in addition to conifers, other shade perennials, shrubs, and small trees.

Piccadilly Farm is located at 1971 Whippoorwill Road, Bishop, GA, 30621, south of Athens near Watkinsville.  This event is free and open to the public.  Walking is required.  For more information, contact Sam Jones at 706.769.6516 or look at the website at www.sites.google.com/site/piccadillyfarm