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Cover your dirt with cover crops

On my trip to Missouri, I
visited Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, a provider of heirloom vegetable and flower
seeds.  After detours because of flooded
highways and after several miles of travel down dirt roads, we arrived at the village
in Mansfield, Missouri.  It’s set up to
resemble an Ozark village, and the company holds bluegrass festivals and other
events on the property.  I was mainly
interested in the gardens, which were beautiful even though the rains during
the summer made some of them inaccessible to visitors. 
In the seed store, I bought
some books and seeds, of course.  I have
planted some of the fall vegetable seeds already, and I’ll plant some of the
cover crop seeds within the next few weeks. 
  
Seeds for Austrian Winter Peas and Buckwheat.  I’ll plant the peas soon and save the Buckwheat for spring

I have begun to take my
garden back from the weeds that have invaded this summer.  I put down mulch and sheets of cardboard to
hold the cleared soil free of weeds, and I plan to sow cover crops in the bare
areas.  Every year I have crops
interspersed with bare areas I try to cover with mulch, and these areas usually
become patches of weeds.  This year, I’m
going to try to put all the crops together in one space and to leave a quadrant
of the garden entirely free of cultivated crops and sow it with a cover crop.  This will, I hope, concentrate my weeding
efforts and make the process easier.  It
may also make putting the chickens in the garden to eat easier because I’ll be
able to keep the tasty lettuce away from the plants I want them to eat. 

Iron and Clay cowpeas have gone a bit crazy in the garden
A cover crop is any crop planted
in an otherwise bare section of the garden to enrich the soil or to prevent
weeds.  If the gardener tills in the
cover crop, soil microbes and worms decompose the crop and enrich the
soil.  If the cover crop remains on top
of the soil and dies, worms and microbes will come up to consume the crop.  Turning a flock of chickens into the cover
crop nourishes the chickens as they eat the crop, helps till in the cover crop,
and enriches the soil.  I grow millet in
the garden as a cover crop and for chicken feed, and five of my chickens are
currently vacationing in the garden and eating the millet as it ripens. 
Using cardboard to hold back the weeds.  Millet in upper right corner
Last winter, I planted
mustard greens in the hard area outside the garden; mustard grows thickly
enough to choke out most weeds.  I
planted Asiatic clover in the orchard, and it provides food for bees, fixes
nitrogen in the soil, and is certainly more attractive than the crabgrass that
would grow there without the competition from the clover.  This clover is perennial so don’t plant it
unless you are sure you want it.
I have grown wheat and oats
in the garden, and I’ll plant some this fall. 
I allowed the grains to make seed last spring and fed it to the chickens
I cut the grain stalks to the ground, used the straw as mulch, and planted my
sweet potatoes among the stubble.  The
grain will not grow back during the summer’s heat.
I tilled some of my rye grass
into the soil, and some I mowed.  The
summer’s heat kills rye grass, and if you mow it before it makes seed, it won’t
return. Even if it makes seed, I haven’t had trouble with it becoming a
weed.  Rye is one of the easiest cover
crops because the inexpensive seed is available in many stores and it
germinates quickly. Heat also kills crimson clover, an annual clover.  One cover crop I do not use is vetch.  Many gardening books recommend using it as a
cover crop, and the writers of those books must not have the problems we do
with vetch invading the garden as a weed. 
I purchased some Austrian winter peas at Baker Creek they are similar
to English peas in habit and won’t become a weed. 
Clover in the apple orchard as a cover crop

If you plow the garden every
spring, using cover crops is easy because you can plow them in and allow them
to decompose for a few weeks before you plant. 
I do not usually till the soil, so I must plan carefully to avoid having
a thick patch of something difficult to remove growing in the place I want to
plant my spring vegetables.  However,
with some planning, I can mow the cover crop, smother it with mulch, or plant
my summer plants along with the cover crop and wait for summer’s heat to kill
it. 

Buy seeds for cover crops at
local feed stores and garden centers. 
Feed stores carry varieties that are successful locally.  Baker Creek Heirloom SeedsPeaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply,
and Johnny’s Selected Seeds  also carry many cover crop seeds.  Read the seed descriptions carefully so you
do not end up with vetch or some other weedy crop; buy locally to help you grow
crops that do not become weeds.
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Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Mansfield, MO

On my trip to Missouri, we also visited Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds in Mansfield, Missouri.  For a tiny town, Mansfield has two interesting places to visit–Baker Creek and the Laura Ingalls Wilder Home.  I would have liked to stay at both places longer than I was able to, but I am thankful I visited.  Laura Ingalls Wilder is one of my favorite authors; I love her books so much that I recently read “The Long Winter” for my own entertainment and found it as fascinating as I did as a child.  If your only experience with “Laura” is from the TV show, I invite you to read her books

Baker Creek is a quirky reproduction Ozark pioneer village.  The storekeeper said the gardens have been deluged by rain this summer, and that they weren’t as nice as usual, but I enjoyed them.  These pictures are courtesy of my father, Keith Haynes, who provided them for me after I lost my iPhone/camera (yikes!) when it fell off the roof of the car near the Ohio River in Indiana when we stopped, and I didn’t realize it until we were in Kentucky.

 I took some lovely pictures of the gardens at the Laura Ingalls Wilder home which were planted with seeds from Baker Creek Heirloom seeds, but they are lost.  

Interesting building at Baker Creek
Entrance to Bakersville
Walking among the gardens

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Missouri Botanical Garden

In early August, my family and I visited my sister in St.
Louis, Missouri.  As I always do when I
travel, in addition to the tourist spots, I visited gardens.  St. Louis has many parks, and the residents
seem to enjoy planting gardens.  I wasn’t
as envious of beautiful flowers not damaged by burning sun and drought this
year as I have been in previous trips to the Midwest, though; mine aren’t
scorched this year either. 

We visited the Missouri Botanical Garden, founded in 1859, a
79-acre refuge inside the St. Louis city limits.  On the day we visited, the little legs that
walked with us had already visited the Gateway Arch, and they were tired, so I
saw about a third of the garden.  That
third was larger than the garden that adjoins Riverbanks Zoo, in Columbia, but
perhaps after the Riverbanks garden has operated for over 150 years, it will be
as large and as elaborate.

I especially enjoyed the Ottoman garden, with its Asian
influences and formal design.  The
Sensory Garden, with plants with scents and textures, was an adventure for my
children. 

Rose Garden
My sister visited the gardens in the spring, and said the
bulb gardens, with thousands of bulbs, were stunning.  When we visited, the perennials that rested
beneath the tulip blossoms when she saw the garden were showing their
appreciation for the pampering the gardening staff provides.  No deer enter the gardens to munch on the
flowers, and I saw no signs of Japanese beetles—perhaps they do not live that
far north. 
Beautiful ponds, decorated with oversized water lilies that
made perfect beds for frogs and fairies, punctuated the garden. 

I enjoyed the contrasting colors, especially
along the Spink Pavilion with the beds lined with ornamental peppers, plants
with bright colors, and even colored okra. 
The okra was beautiful and edible, and I am going to grow some next
year. 

Beautiful, and edible, okra!

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I am thankful for all the rain we have had this year, but my garden is a mess!

Since I have begun gardening, at least, I don’t think I have ever complained about the rain.  I grew up in a farm family, and I have always been aware of the need for regular rainfall for crops in ways that is not possible for folks who live in the city.  
I have, however, had about enough rain for awhile.  My garden is a mess because of the excess rain, and although I am thankful that the rain is replenishing my well after the years of drought, and that my creek flows with water, I would enjoy a break.  

Standing water beside my driveway
There’s a compost pile and some tomatoes under the weeds

My garden is messier this year than it was in the years I had infants and toddlers.  Many times this year I have awoken with plans to work in the garden to hear crashes of thunder and pounding rain.  
Asparagus plants with watermelon vines, and lots of weeds!

According to online weather data, we have already had more rain than we normally get in an entire year, and 8 inches more rain than we had for the entire year last year.

More weeds!
Pea vines have taken over, but at least weeds have a hard time penetrating them.

This week the forecast is for pleasant weather, so I plan to tackle these weeds with the help of my chickens.  A goat would be more helpful, I imagine, but I’ll have to use what I have available.  I need to make room for my fall garden.
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It’s time to plant the fall garden

Fall weather is on the way. 
At this time of year, I usually write about how it’s too hot to imagine
cooler days in which fall crops may flourish, but this summer has been
unusually cool and fall weather seems to have a better chance to conquer the
heat this autumn than in most years.  It
is time to start some seeds to grow into transplants to put out later in the
fall, and it’s a great rainy-day activity if it’s pouring rain at your house the way it is at mine.  

Site of fall garden
I won’t try to set out any plants soon, but I plan to sow some seeds in the garden within the next couple of weeks.  I will start the seeds while it’s still hot
instead of waiting for cooler temperatures because the plants need to establish
themselves before cold weather comes.  If
I wait until late September when the weather cools, which I have done, frost
will damage the baby plants and they won’t grow well during cold weather.  Older plants enjoy the cold weather, and I am
able to harvest from them throughout most of the winter.  In the spring, they will resume growing ahead
of new plants.
Baby plants
If the soil is dry, before I plant seeds, I soak the
soil.  After I plant the seeds, I water
them very gently, and continue to water them gently once or twice a day,
depending on rainfall.  Mature plants,
with deep roots, need infrequent, long soakings.  Seeds, which inhabit the top layer of soil, need
only enough water to keep the top inch or so of soil moist.  They need gentle mists of water, because
vigorous water applications will wash the seeds away.  Make sure you tell the afternoon thunderstorms
to treat them gently, or you might have to plant the seeds again. 
After I sow the seeds, I put metal hoops across a garden row
and I lay shade cloth across them, pinning it down with clothespins.  Shade cloth is available at garden centers or
at www.groworganic.com.  Old sheets will work also; use something that
blocks the hottest rays of the sun while allowing some light.  Provided strong storms don’t make these
coverings collapse, they will protect the seedlings from battering rain. 
When they seeds sprout, I continue to keep the soil moist,
but I gradually wean them off such frequent watering so they will develop deep
roots.   I leave the shade cloth up until the weather
becomes cooler, and I gradually expose the seedlings to brighter sunlight.  If the seedlings look too tall and spindly, they
are not getting enough sunlight. 
Indoors, I sow seeds of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage,
cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, and spinach.  Keep the baby seedlings inside and away from
scorching temperatures until the weather cools. 
Outdoors, sow seeds of carrots, beets, chard, Chinese
cabbage, collards, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, parsnips, radishes,
spinach, and turnips.   Keep the soil
moist by frequently misting the soil with water, provide shade as needed, and
you should have a garden ready for harvest throughout the fall and winter.   

Google “what to plant now,” to find a yearly planting list
at www.motherearthnews.com.When I
am well organized in the garden, I can harvest something from the garden every
day of the year.  This year, thanks to
the excessive rain and my activities, I’ll have to battle the weeds for a spot
in the garden before I can begin work.