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Pig Olympics

In my house, I add the term “Olympics” to the name of any offending creature who causes me undue exertion.  We have Toddler Olympics when I shop with a tired toddler in a crowded store.  We have Cat Olympics when the cat dashes through our legs into the house from where she has been unceremoniously deposited in anticipation of our leaving the house for several hours. 

Sometimes Toddler and Cat Olympics are combined activities, like when both toddler and cat go missing and I find him with a pair of scissors attempting to remove cat whiskers.  Chicken Olympics occur when the chickens escape their fence and attack a garden full of new seedlings.  

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Happy pigs!

This spring we have added a new sport: Pig Olympics.  Although I can manage the other three versions alone, I need help for Pig Olympics.  I hesitated to write about this pig’s difficulties because sometimes people don’t want to hear about the actual details of the raising of their food, but I decided that you all might be interested in this story and could gain an understanding of pig-keeping.  I only wish it had been videoed for your entertainment, but we could spare no camera operator.

On a lovely Sunday afternoon, after leaving the Ladies’ Tea hosted by my church, in which I sat with 80 other nicely dressed women while we sipped tea, ate goodies, and chatted, I went home, put on farming clothes, and visited the pigs.  I am willing to bet that no one else went from a tea party to a pig pasture.

For a week or two, I had noticed a raised spot on one of the pigs that seemed to be growing larger.  Other farmers told me it was an abscess and advised me to watch and wait, which I did, but it continued to grow larger and began to seem to cause him pain when it was touched.  It expanded from the size of a golf ball to the size of a tennis ball. Although he appeared to feel well, we decided it was time to lance the abscess to remove the pus and the source of infection.

After admonishing the children to stay in the house to avoid adding Toddler Olympics to Pig Olympics, my husband, Scott,  and I headed for the field with some rubbing alcohol, my sterilized dissection knife from college, and a rope.  

We lack any corral or other structures in which to restrain the pigs, and so Scott’s plan was to lasso the pig.  Yes, he used to be quite good at lassoing fence posts as a boy, and no, he hasn’t lassoed anything in 30 years.  

I won’t go into all the details, but we chased that pig around the field for probably 30 minutes trying to catch him.  They will come to food, and they will let me scratch them, but holding them down is another matter.  Unlike toddlers, chickens, or cats, they weigh 75 pounds or more and have no loose skin, long limbs, or fluffy tails I could grab.  I was also more than a little nervous about actually tackling a squealing, muddy, terrified creature with hooves.  I wished my boy was closer to 16 than 3: pig catching is the perfect occupation for a bunch of fearless teenage boys.

Scott did finally manage to lasso the pig, after avoiding, by some miracle, breaking an ankle by stumbling into a pig wallow.   I grabbed the dissection knife, wiped his skin with alcohol, and plunged the knife into the abscess.  (I will not go into the details of what came out, but the surgery was a success). 

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An example of the pig-craters that we did NOT fall into

I poured more alcohol onto the wound, and what I should have done was spray it with Blu-Kote, an antibacterial spray.  I didn’t plan that far ahead, so the pig went over and plopped down into the mud by the watering tank. 

I had a moment of fear that I had somehow mortally wounded the pig, but then I remembered that pigs don’t sweat and this pig was simply hot.  We rinsed him and his friends with water from the hose, congratulated ourselves on our veterinary skills, and went into the house where the children were quite impressed with Daddy’s ability to  lasso a pig. 

Over the next few days, I sprayed the pig with Blu-Kote, and was pleased to observe the abscess decreasing in size.  The pig decided we were friends again: I think he was somewhat relieved that I had ended or significantly reduced the pain from the tennis-ball sized abscess.  Pigs are tough creatures, and I believe he will be okay.

 

 

 

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Deer Repelling Strategies That Work

I  wrote this article in 2012 about my old garden.  I have included the original article here with additions in italics about what I have learned since and what I am doing at my new garden.

Like people, deer love the new growth plants put out in spring.  Unlike us, they eat the foliage instead of admiring it, bringing howls of dismay from gardeners who just spent a lot of money on the plants at the garden center.

I put hair and soap around my plants, ground up garlic and hot peppers and turned them into a slurry to cover the leaves of the plants with a disgusting substance, and even attempted to shoot at the deer with a BB gun.  (Sometimes the whizzing BB startled them away).  I even ran out of the house screaming at them.  The deer were quite unfazed most of the time.  Finally, we gave up and installed an electric fence.

We use three strands of wire on metal posts, and we have a gate that folds back unobtrusively into the woods where the fence crosses the driveway.  Electric fences are easy to install and to maintain, as long as you buy a T-post driver to get the metal posts in the ground. 

Consider driving the posts your workout for a couple of days; it’s great for upper-arm strength. After you install the t-posts, you can use the tool to drive garden stakes.

Stores like Tractor Supply sell the necessary supplies.  Electric fences are not dangerous if properly installed, and they give a harmless, although unpleasant, shock.  

The deer fence worked for a time, but then the deer learned to jump over the three strands of fence as though it wasn’t even there.  At my new home, I have not put up any fencing around the garden, even though my home sits in the middle of hundreds of acres of woods.  I am not entirely certain why the deer avoid my home. The neighbor’s dogs probably help keep them away, and perhaps the disruption of the land-clearing and house construction process made them divert their paths.

At my old home, I had a permanent fence, six feet tall, surrounding the perimeter of the vegetable garden. I never had any deer intrusion. At the new garden, if and when deer become a problem, I will not install a permanent fence because of the expense and trouble involved in constructing it, and because the permanent fence encourages weed problems.

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Permanent fence around the vegetable garden at my old home in the winter, when the weeds weren’t so bad.

If I need a fence at the new home, I will use two electric fences, one inside the other. Instructing you on building a deer fence is beyond the scope of this article, but the basic idea is this: deer don’t like to be trapped between fences, so if you build two fences far enough apart that they can’t clear them both in one jump, but close enough together so they can’t jump over one and then regain their energy for another jump, they won’t try jumping at all. For more information, visit this website for fence- building directions.

If you have close neighbors who might object to the electrification of your property, try commercially produced deer repellents. Deer Scram Professional Grade is the most effective product I have found.  It is a granular substance, containing dried deer blood, pepper, garlic, and cloves. 

Motion-Activated Sprinklers  scare the deer away, too and are actually one of my favorite deterrents that I will probably impelement at the new home before I build a fence.  I have had mine for many years, but I couldn’t use them at the old house because I would have had to have hoses stretching across the driveway permanently to operate them.    They are also useful for keeping unwary guests out of your house, cats from using the garden as a litterbox, or even chickens away from your newly sprouted seedlings.

At my new home, I have solar powered flashing red lights that fortify my garden against the deer.  This may not be a solution for people with close neighbors, as they would be irritating in close quarters, but in the country they are not bothersome and seem to be effective.  I also have these lights which are not nearly as obnoxious.  I do think the large light is more effective, though.

Another way to minimize deer damage is to compose your garden of plants deer dislike, although they will eat almost anything if they are hungry enough.  Deer usually dislike strange tastes and textures, with the exception of roses, which they love: a few thorn pricks seem to be worth the taste.

Herbs, mints, and their relatives have unusual tastes and smells.  Deer do not usually like mints, but be careful with them because they can become invasive.  Plant them in a pot sunk in the ground to contain their roots. 

Upright rosemary makes a great small evergreen shrub for hot, dry places and I have never known them to eat it.  Deer avoid the mint relatives Agastache and salvia.  They don’t usually eat foxgloves, larkspur, or coneflowers.  

For spring bulbs, plant daffodils instead of tulips, daffodils do better here anyway.  Deer avoid hollies, boxwood, and loropetalum.  They also dislike conifers.

Some of the deer’s favorite plants are azaleas, roses,camellias, hydrangeas, Indian hawthorns, Hostas, pansies, and tulips.  Sometimes you can hide these favorite plants among or behind less favored plants; plant your tulips and pansies among some mint and rosemary plants.

Deer love roses

Plant favorite plants close to the house instead of at the edge of the woods; deer generally do not venture close to the house, unless there is a lot of “deer pressure,” which means that there are a lot of hungry deer and not much food. Deer have been known to eat tomatoes out of potted plants on people’s porches.

Don’t even try to plant a vegetable garden in deer country without protection in the form of a fence; deer love beans, peas, and lettuce, and they have been known to watch the tomatoes ripening, just as you do, and to pluck the one you were planning to harvest the next day from the vine during the night.

Before you purchase plants, find out whether or not you have deer; your neighbors will know if you haven’t seen any.   In the Blythewood area, if you have any woods nearby, you probably have deer. 

Garden centers, books like “The New Southern Living Garden Book” and online sites like bluestoneperennials.com offer lists of plants that deer dislike. Plan ahead to purchase plants deer dislike to save yourself the pain of walking out to admire your garden to find all the blossoms stripped from your roses and your shrubs defoliated.