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Deer Repelling Strategies That Work

I  wrote this article in 2012 about my old garden.  I have included the original article here with additions in italics about what I have learned since and what I am doing at my new garden.

Like people, deer love the new growth plants put out in spring.  Unlike us, they eat the foliage instead of admiring it, bringing howls of dismay from gardeners who just spent a lot of money on the plants at the garden center.

I put hair and soap around my plants, ground up garlic and hot peppers and turned them into a slurry to cover the leaves of the plants with a disgusting substance, and even attempted to shoot at the deer with a BB gun.  (Sometimes the whizzing BB startled them away).  I even ran out of the house screaming at them.  The deer were quite unfazed most of the time.  Finally, we gave up and installed an electric fence.

We use three strands of wire on metal posts, and we have a gate that folds back unobtrusively into the woods where the fence crosses the driveway.  Electric fences are easy to install and to maintain, as long as you buy a T-post driver to get the metal posts in the ground. 

Consider driving the posts your workout for a couple of days; it’s great for upper-arm strength. After you install the t-posts, you can use the tool to drive garden stakes.

Stores like Tractor Supply sell the necessary supplies.  Electric fences are not dangerous if properly installed, and they give a harmless, although unpleasant, shock.  

The deer fence worked for a time, but then the deer learned to jump over the three strands of fence as though it wasn’t even there.  At my new home, I have not put up any fencing around the garden, even though my home sits in the middle of hundreds of acres of woods.  I am not entirely certain why the deer avoid my home. The neighbor’s dogs probably help keep them away, and perhaps the disruption of the land-clearing and house construction process made them divert their paths.

At my old home, I had a permanent fence, six feet tall, surrounding the perimeter of the vegetable garden. I never had any deer intrusion. At the new garden, if and when deer become a problem, I will not install a permanent fence because of the expense and trouble involved in constructing it, and because the permanent fence encourages weed problems.

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Permanent fence around the vegetable garden at my old home in the winter, when the weeds weren’t so bad.

If I need a fence at the new home, I will use two electric fences, one inside the other. Instructing you on building a deer fence is beyond the scope of this article, but the basic idea is this: deer don’t like to be trapped between fences, so if you build two fences far enough apart that they can’t clear them both in one jump, but close enough together so they can’t jump over one and then regain their energy for another jump, they won’t try jumping at all. For more information, visit this website for fence- building directions.

If you have close neighbors who might object to the electrification of your property, try commercially produced deer repellents. Deer Scram Professional Grade is the most effective product I have found.  It is a granular substance, containing dried deer blood, pepper, garlic, and cloves. 

Motion-Activated Sprinklers  scare the deer away, too and are actually one of my favorite deterrents that I will probably impelement at the new home before I build a fence.  I have had mine for many years, but I couldn’t use them at the old house because I would have had to have hoses stretching across the driveway permanently to operate them.    They are also useful for keeping unwary guests out of your house, cats from using the garden as a litterbox, or even chickens away from your newly sprouted seedlings.

At my new home, I have solar powered flashing red lights that fortify my garden against the deer.  This may not be a solution for people with close neighbors, as they would be irritating in close quarters, but in the country they are not bothersome and seem to be effective.  I also have these lights which are not nearly as obnoxious.  I do think the large light is more effective, though.

Another way to minimize deer damage is to compose your garden of plants deer dislike, although they will eat almost anything if they are hungry enough.  Deer usually dislike strange tastes and textures, with the exception of roses, which they love: a few thorn pricks seem to be worth the taste.

Herbs, mints, and their relatives have unusual tastes and smells.  Deer do not usually like mints, but be careful with them because they can become invasive.  Plant them in a pot sunk in the ground to contain their roots. 

Upright rosemary makes a great small evergreen shrub for hot, dry places and I have never known them to eat it.  Deer avoid the mint relatives Agastache and salvia.  They don’t usually eat foxgloves, larkspur, or coneflowers.  

For spring bulbs, plant daffodils instead of tulips, daffodils do better here anyway.  Deer avoid hollies, boxwood, and loropetalum.  They also dislike conifers.

Some of the deer’s favorite plants are azaleas, roses,camellias, hydrangeas, Indian hawthorns, Hostas, pansies, and tulips.  Sometimes you can hide these favorite plants among or behind less favored plants; plant your tulips and pansies among some mint and rosemary plants.

Deer love roses

Plant favorite plants close to the house instead of at the edge of the woods; deer generally do not venture close to the house, unless there is a lot of “deer pressure,” which means that there are a lot of hungry deer and not much food. Deer have been known to eat tomatoes out of potted plants on people’s porches.

Don’t even try to plant a vegetable garden in deer country without protection in the form of a fence; deer love beans, peas, and lettuce, and they have been known to watch the tomatoes ripening, just as you do, and to pluck the one you were planning to harvest the next day from the vine during the night.

Before you purchase plants, find out whether or not you have deer; your neighbors will know if you haven’t seen any.   In the Blythewood area, if you have any woods nearby, you probably have deer. 

Garden centers, books like “The New Southern Living Garden Book” and online sites like bluestoneperennials.com offer lists of plants that deer dislike. Plan ahead to purchase plants deer dislike to save yourself the pain of walking out to admire your garden to find all the blossoms stripped from your roses and your shrubs defoliated.    

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It’s Time to Read Seed Catalogs by the Fire

It has been so warm this winter, with the exception of a few
days last week, that I have not been able to engage in one of my favorite winter
activities: reading seed catalogs while I sit by the fire.  I have still read them, of course, but without
a fire, something seems to be missing.  While
I enjoy the fire, I organize the seed I have left from last year, and I decide
which varieties I will order for the garden this year.     Packages of seeds cost a few dollars, and it
is easy to experiment with many different varieties of plants to figure out
which ones are happiest in your garden.    
Two years ago, I ordered some fruit trees and bushes from
Stark Brothers’ Nursery (
www.starkbros.com or
1.800.325.4180) and I am pleased with their products and service.  As soon as I get my soil ready, I will order
some more fruit trees so I can expand my orchard. 

I do not think I have room to cram in any more perennials
now, but perennials from Bluestone Perennials, (
www.bluestoneperennials.com or
1.800.852.5243) fill my garden. They no longer sell perennials in three-packs; instead,
they sell one larger plant for a lower price than the three packs.  The catalog gives cultural information on nearly
any perennial commonly grown in the US.

I have not ever actually ordered anything from White Flower
Farm,
www.whiteflowerfarm.com or
1.800.503.9624, but their catalog has unusual and beautiful plants.  I found out about them from a Martha Stewart
book years ago, and they appear to be a good, although expensive, nursery.

Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply (www.GrowOrganic.com or 1.888.784.1722), is
a California company with nearly every gardening/farming item imaginable.  Peaceful Valley’s catalog is good for
information, obscure organic pest control products, and season-extension
products. 

For seeds, I order from Seed Savers Exchange, (www.seedsaversexchange.org or (562)
382.5990), a nonprofit organization from Iowa which sells exclusively heirloom
seeds and John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds (
www.kitchengardenseeds.com or
(860) 567.6086), a catalog that is a work of art and provides detailed planting
and culinary information. 

The only truly local seed supplier is Heavenly Seed LLC (www.heavenlyseed.net or 864.209.8283) out
of Anderson.  It provides the least
glamorous catalog but the most generous amounts of seed for the money; I buy
most of my seeds from Heavenly Seed.    

Johnny’s Seeds, www.johnnyseeds.com
gives good cultural information for gardeners, and Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds,
(417.924.8917 or
www.rareseeds.com, has
one of the largest collections of heirloom seeds around.  Pinetree Garden Seeds (207.926.3400 or
www.superseeds.com) sells small,
inexpensive packets of seeds that are useful for small gardens or for trying
out many varieties of seeds. 

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Put Some Color into Your Foundation Plantings

Foundation plantings, also known as a line of green shrubs across the front of your house, are usually so boring people don’t even notice them as they dash by them on the way to the front door. Even the homeowner may not notice them until the shrubs grow tall enough to block the view outside. Then, in an annual ritual, the designated shrub-pruner in the family, precariously perching on an unstable ladder, chops them into submission.
In my family, I am the shrub-chopper. When we bought the house, it contained the requisite line of shrubs, all of which I removed except for the Japanese Holly, “Sky Pencil,” an evergreen, columnar shrub that, at my house, grows about eight feet tall and two feet wide, between the windows.  The holly is a fine choice for the space, but it doesn’t get quite enough sun to make the new growth rigid like it is supposed to, and so the new growth flops over until I give it a haircut and tie it to a stake.

Landscapers that work with home builders are notorious for putting in shrubs that grow quickly so a new house’s landscape looks nice until after the buyer moves in.  The unwitting homeownerhas to chop shrubs several times a year, and soon grows to detest yard work. In my first home, the developer’s landscaper put ligustrum, which quickly grows to 10 feet tall by eight feet wide, in a space about two feet wide between the garage doors.  My husband sheared it into a tiny rectangle several times a year so we could continue to get the cars into the garage.  Avoid overused and fast growing shrubs like ligustrum, pittosporum, Indian hawthorn, and junipers in your landscape; they are useful if you need to quickly screen an unattractive view.

There seems to be an unwritten rule that the front yard must be utilitarian like everyone else’s on the street, with anything imaginative reserved for the backyard.  I wanted my front yard to be as much of a garden as my back yard, and so  I decided on a color scheme I have repeated in other places in my garden: chartreuse and magenta, mixed in with some solid green. My design contains plants that the deer are supposed to resist eating; sometimes they listen to that instruction and sometimes they don’t.  I tried to buy plants that even at maturity will not cover my windows.  Sometimes it is hard to find shrubs that are the right size, color, and are deer-resistant, so I did buy some that, unpruned, would eventually grow too large.  However, they grow slowly; I prune them every couple of years and they behave.


View of front garden

 In the above photo, chartreuse “Golden Euonymus” glows beside burgundy loropetalum.  Behind the euonymus is a burgundy Japanese barberry that will grow to about 4 feet tall.  In the center of the photograph is a peony, with dark pink buds about to open.  After the peony’s show of flowers, the green leaves provide a nice contrast with the bright foliage of the other plants during the rest of the summer.  By the house, the Japanese maple, ‘Crimson Queen,’ has a nice weeping form and lacy leaves.  It will remain small enough not to obstruct the view from the window.  To the left of the Japanese Maple is and Oakleaf Hydrangea; its leaves turn crimson in the fall.

Unfortunately, the loropetalums I purchased, from a reputable local nursery, were labeled as a shrub that was supposed to grow 3-4 feet tall and wide.  They cost at least double the price of the huge version of the shrub.  The labels were inaccurate, and the shrubs require hard pruning every year or so to make them behave.  I discarded the receipt and the labels: in the future I will save both until I am sure I got the plant I paid for.




View of perennials in front garden

 In this photo, I continue the chartreuse and burgundy color scheme with the ground cover golden “Creeping Jenny,” and the taller Persicaria ‘Red Dragon’ in the foreground.  Penstemon ‘Husker’s Red,’ is beginning to flower in the center of the photo, and at the base of the stairs the grass Carex ‘Evergold’ shines.  Included in the design, but not yet flowering in this April photograph, are Bergenia ‘Winterglow,’ Anemone ‘Robutissima,’ Lobelia ‘Monet Moment,’ Monarda ‘Pink Supreme,’ Astilbe ‘Rheinland,’ and Aster ‘Alma Potschke.”

In this area of my garden, the soil is always moist, even during a drought.  I think there is a spring under my house that no one noticed during its construction, but the spring does not cause the house problems. However, it does limit my choice of plants to those that tolerate consistently moist conditions.  If I had a well-drained site, I would plant some of the Euphorbias, like Euphorbia ‘Chameleon,’ Sedums, like Sedum ‘Lynda Windsor’ and ‘Angelina,’ and Heucheras, like Heuchera ‘Lime Rickey,’ ‘Southern Comfort,’ and ‘Purple Petticoats.’ In my garden, these plants keep leaves most of the year.

I order most of my perennials from Bluestone Perennials, http://www.bluestoneperennials.com/.   I like Bluestone because they have the widest variety of plants I have seen, their plants are healthy, and most plants they sell in groups of three for the price most nurseries charge for one.  Granted, the plants are smaller than you might get elsewhere, but they bloom the first year for me and quickly catch up to those I buy in larger containers. Their customer service is excellent, and the catalog provides detailed cultural information about the plants.

Tracy Disabato-Aust’s book, “The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting and Pruning Techniques” is a good reference.  It provides detailed cultural information about most plants and time-saving ways to take care of perennials, such as giving the entire plant a haircut with hedge trimmers or a weed-eater instead of laboriously clipping of each individual spent bloom.  It also gives garden design information.

“The Southern Living Garden Book” is a good reference for folks who live in the South, which includes Delaware and west to Oklahoma and part of Missouri.  The book includes cultural information, including size at maturity, of nearly any plant that grows in the South, and it includes lists of plants for different situations, such as lists of plants with colorful foliage, deer resistant plants, and plants with showy flowers.

If you need help with the design, most local garden center staff will help you choose appropriate plants; show them a photograph of the site, along with measurements and a description of soil and sun conditions.

This spring, discard your preconceived notions of the foundation planting. Pull out the shrubs that threaten to cover your windows every year, and plant some that will grow to maturity while remaining under your windows. Include perennials and grasses in the design, and turn your front yard into a garden, instead of just a path to the front door.