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A few weeks ago, I attended the South Carolina Agriculture
Council meeting to hear a discussion about “GMOs, Organic Farming, and Organic
Certification.”  Readers of this column
know I am biased against the use of GMOs or, genetically modified organisms, in
agriculture.  It seems somehow wrong to
insert the genes of a flounder, for example, into a tomato so that the tomato
will tolerate colder temperatures, and then to eat this “Franken food.”

 Dan Pitts, the
Technical Development Representative from Monsanto, the company that was one of
the pioneers of GMO agriculture, gave presentation on using GMOs in agriculture
to “grow better crops and use less resources to do so.”  With GMO corn, for example, scientists insert
the pesticide BT, or bacillus thuringiensis, into the corn genes so that when a
caterpillar eats the corn, it also eats the pesticide, which kills the
caterpillar.  Farmers do not have to
spray pesticides on the fields, and, as Mr. Pitts illustrated with statistics, farmers
no longer put millions of pounds of chemicals into the environment.  Corn yields have increased.  With Roundup® Ready Soybeans, farmers do not
have to till the soil and cause erosion; they spray the herbicide, which kills
the weeds but not the soybeans.

I asked Mr. Pitts about reports I have heard about pollen
from GMO plants blowing into fields of plants that are not GMO, and producing
plants that have the GMO genes.  He said,
“Coexistence of different agricultural production methods working effectively
side by side is well established and has a long, successful history in
agriculture.”  He also says, “according
to USDA’s organic rules, the inadvertent presence of GMO in an organic canola
field would not constitute a violation of the organic program regulations nor
render the canola ineligible for organic certification.” 

One of the arguments in favor of using GMOs is that we need
increased food to feed our increasing population, and without GMOs to increase
the yield, people will starve.  What has
always been interesting to me about this argument is that the commonly produced
GMO plants: field corn, soybeans, cotton, and tobacco are not edible in their
unprocessed state.  Field corn is fed to
animals on feedlots or turned into high-fructose corn syrup; some soybeans may
be turned into tofu but most of them are turned into oil or other processed
products.  Mr. Pitts said that Monsanto
has recently developed a GMO sweet corn that will be edible in its natural state.

For a different perspective on farming, Eric McClam, a
Tulane graduate in architecture and manager of City Roots farm in Columbia, discussed
their farming practices.  The three-acre
farm, in the Rosewood Neighborhood of Columbia, on property owned by the City
of Columbia, “produce[s] clean, healthy, sustainably grown products while
enhancing and educating our community about the benefits of locally grown food,
composting, vermicomposting and other environmentally friendly farming
practices,” according to the website
www.cityroots.org. 

City Roots won the 2010 Downtown Pinnacle award from the
International Downtown Association.  More
than 600 cities competed for the award, which recognizes innovative development
in downtown areas of cities.  City Roots
Farm and the City of Columbia are proud of this recognition of their
partnership in using land that might otherwise be wasted in an urban area. 

Not only do they use no GMO seeds, but they also use no
pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers except manure produced by the laying
hens and compost made from crop wastes and vegetable refuse from grocery stores
and restaurants.  Although they follow
organic farming practices, McClam says, “Organic certification does not make
sense for us because we know our end user and can talk with them about farming
practices directly.  Organic
certification for 60 varieties of plants is a lot of paperwork.”  The farm sells at farmers markets, local
stores, and local restaurants. 

Through succession planting, where there is another crop
ready to go into the ground as soon as one comes out, and organic, sustainable
practices, City Roots produces copious amounts of locally grown, nutritious
food for the people of Columbia, without using GMOS or buying and applying
pesticides and fertilizers.  Not buying
pesticides or fertilizers keeps their costs down, and gives the farm more money
to spend on its biggest expense: human labor to care for the plants.    

What a contrast City Roots is from a sterile Midwestern
cornfield where nothing but corn grows and farmers have to tend the crop in
machines that cost hundreds of thousands of dollars.  I do not know the solution to feeding the
world, but GMOs scare me.  Mr. Pitts says
that Monsanto did many safety tests to make sure the GMOs will not harm the
environment or people, but the technology has only existed since the
1980s.  How often have things we thought
were safe turned out to be dangerous after the passage of time?

 

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Farm-to-Table Dinner at Doko Farm

A few weeks ago, my family and I enjoyed a farm-to-table dinner at Doko Farm, in the Cedar Creek area of Blythewood on the DuBard family land.  Amanda and Joe Jones, owners of the farm on land that has been in Joe’s family since 1839, joined Chef Brian Dukes, executive chef of the Blue Marlin in Columbia, and many volunteers, who worked for their supper, to put on a wonderful autumn meal that celebrated the bounty of our local food.
The tables await diners

 

Chef Brian Dukes braised Doko Farm’s pasture-raised Plymouth Rock heritage chicken legs and thighs with leeks in a rich broth and he grilled the breasts with wood from Doko Farm’s pecan grove.  He also grilled the chicken’s legs, which are
much longer than the legs from ordinary chickens.  The menu included roasted local sweet potatoes and turnips with herbs, fennel and beets with lemon vinaigrette and City Roots arugula, and bread and homemade apple pie from The Company of OHS in Ridgeway.  The brisk air, brilliant autumn leaves on the trees, and conversation with fellow diners made the delicious food taste even better.
Plymouth Rock chicken on the grill
Guy Noir, a blue Jersey Giant rooster, greeted us as we wandered the farm before the tour of the farm, led by Amanda, began.  Meandering around the farm were members of the laying flock of chickens.  They are an assortment of breeds including Buff Orpingtons, Americanas, Jersey Giants, and combinations of breeds, also known as chicken mutts.
Guy Noir
Four Guinea hogs, developed in the Southeast, which once lived on most homesteads but now are endangered, rooted in the soil in their area of the woods and took delight in burying their faces in the soil as they searched for treats.  These hogs are allies for the Joneses in their battle to retake the pasture from the sweet gum sprouts and sumac; their rooting destroys any vegetation in the way and tills
the beautiful black soil. 
I am glad the Joneses are reclaiming the farmland of their
ancestors instead of allowing the beautiful house and grounds to fall into
disrepair and to be overtaken by weeds.  The grandparents and great-grandparents must be watching them with pleasure knowing that their hard work has not gone to waste and that another generation will farm and love the land.
By attending a farm-to-table event, the diner understands the origin of food.  The same chicken we were eating once roamed in a neighboring pasture, and the vegetables came from nearby.  The meal, albeit with a few gourmet additions Joe’s ancestors did not enjoy, might have been similar to a meal they ate one beautiful November day a hundred years ago. 

Because of the success of this sold-out event, the Joneses hope to have other similar events in the future.  Motor Supply Company Bistro, in
Columbia, is hosting Harvest Week November 15-20.  The restaurant will
feature Doko Farm’s heritage meats November 17. Other farms featured during the week include Caw Caw Creek, City Roots, Wil-Moore Farms, and Freshly Grown Farms.
Call the restaurant at 256-6687 or find Motor Supply Company on Facebook
for more information.  To find out about
upcoming events at Doko Farm, visit
www.dokofarm.org or find them on Facebook.