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Deer Repelling Strategies That Work

I  wrote this article in 2012 about my old garden.  I have included the original article here with additions in italics about what I have learned since and what I am doing at my new garden.

Like people, deer love the new growth plants put out in spring.  Unlike us, they eat the foliage instead of admiring it, bringing howls of dismay from gardeners who just spent a lot of money on the plants at the garden center.

I put hair and soap around my plants, ground up garlic and hot peppers and turned them into a slurry to cover the leaves of the plants with a disgusting substance, and even attempted to shoot at the deer with a BB gun.  (Sometimes the whizzing BB startled them away).  I even ran out of the house screaming at them.  The deer were quite unfazed most of the time.  Finally, we gave up and installed an electric fence.

We use three strands of wire on metal posts, and we have a gate that folds back unobtrusively into the woods where the fence crosses the driveway.  Electric fences are easy to install and to maintain, as long as you buy a T-post driver to get the metal posts in the ground. 

Consider driving the posts your workout for a couple of days; it’s great for upper-arm strength. After you install the t-posts, you can use the tool to drive garden stakes.

Stores like Tractor Supply sell the necessary supplies.  Electric fences are not dangerous if properly installed, and they give a harmless, although unpleasant, shock.  

The deer fence worked for a time, but then the deer learned to jump over the three strands of fence as though it wasn’t even there.  At my new home, I have not put up any fencing around the garden, even though my home sits in the middle of hundreds of acres of woods.  I am not entirely certain why the deer avoid my home. The neighbor’s dogs probably help keep them away, and perhaps the disruption of the land-clearing and house construction process made them divert their paths.

At my old home, I had a permanent fence, six feet tall, surrounding the perimeter of the vegetable garden. I never had any deer intrusion. At the new garden, if and when deer become a problem, I will not install a permanent fence because of the expense and trouble involved in constructing it, and because the permanent fence encourages weed problems.

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Permanent fence around the vegetable garden at my old home in the winter, when the weeds weren’t so bad.

If I need a fence at the new home, I will use two electric fences, one inside the other. Instructing you on building a deer fence is beyond the scope of this article, but the basic idea is this: deer don’t like to be trapped between fences, so if you build two fences far enough apart that they can’t clear them both in one jump, but close enough together so they can’t jump over one and then regain their energy for another jump, they won’t try jumping at all. For more information, visit this website for fence- building directions.

If you have close neighbors who might object to the electrification of your property, try commercially produced deer repellents. Deer Scram Professional Grade is the most effective product I have found.  It is a granular substance, containing dried deer blood, pepper, garlic, and cloves. 

Motion-Activated Sprinklers  scare the deer away, too and are actually one of my favorite deterrents that I will probably impelement at the new home before I build a fence.  I have had mine for many years, but I couldn’t use them at the old house because I would have had to have hoses stretching across the driveway permanently to operate them.    They are also useful for keeping unwary guests out of your house, cats from using the garden as a litterbox, or even chickens away from your newly sprouted seedlings.

At my new home, I have solar powered flashing red lights that fortify my garden against the deer.  This may not be a solution for people with close neighbors, as they would be irritating in close quarters, but in the country they are not bothersome and seem to be effective.  I also have these lights which are not nearly as obnoxious.  I do think the large light is more effective, though.

Another way to minimize deer damage is to compose your garden of plants deer dislike, although they will eat almost anything if they are hungry enough.  Deer usually dislike strange tastes and textures, with the exception of roses, which they love: a few thorn pricks seem to be worth the taste.

Herbs, mints, and their relatives have unusual tastes and smells.  Deer do not usually like mints, but be careful with them because they can become invasive.  Plant them in a pot sunk in the ground to contain their roots. 

Upright rosemary makes a great small evergreen shrub for hot, dry places and I have never known them to eat it.  Deer avoid the mint relatives Agastache and salvia.  They don’t usually eat foxgloves, larkspur, or coneflowers.  

For spring bulbs, plant daffodils instead of tulips, daffodils do better here anyway.  Deer avoid hollies, boxwood, and loropetalum.  They also dislike conifers.

Some of the deer’s favorite plants are azaleas, roses,camellias, hydrangeas, Indian hawthorns, Hostas, pansies, and tulips.  Sometimes you can hide these favorite plants among or behind less favored plants; plant your tulips and pansies among some mint and rosemary plants.

Deer love roses

Plant favorite plants close to the house instead of at the edge of the woods; deer generally do not venture close to the house, unless there is a lot of “deer pressure,” which means that there are a lot of hungry deer and not much food. Deer have been known to eat tomatoes out of potted plants on people’s porches.

Don’t even try to plant a vegetable garden in deer country without protection in the form of a fence; deer love beans, peas, and lettuce, and they have been known to watch the tomatoes ripening, just as you do, and to pluck the one you were planning to harvest the next day from the vine during the night.

Before you purchase plants, find out whether or not you have deer; your neighbors will know if you haven’t seen any.   In the Blythewood area, if you have any woods nearby, you probably have deer. 

Garden centers, books like “The New Southern Living Garden Book” and online sites like bluestoneperennials.com offer lists of plants that deer dislike. Plan ahead to purchase plants deer dislike to save yourself the pain of walking out to admire your garden to find all the blossoms stripped from your roses and your shrubs defoliated.    

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Deer… I do not love you!

I know deer
eavesdrop on my conversations.  I thought
I won the battle against deer, but they must have decided  I was too sure of my victory against them, and
they started eating my garden as if the electric fence that surrounds my
property did not exist.  Almost daily,
now, I see deer in the yard, and I see their white mop-like tails defiantly
wave at me as they clear the fence in one jump. 

My poor apple trees!  There should be leaves all the way down the  branches.



Deer aren’t the
only pests attacking my garden, and even if you don’t have deer, you probably
have six-legged critters that munch on your plants.  I saw no potato bugs this year, and harvested
84 pounds of nearly perfect potatoes a couple of weeks, but they usually try to destroy
my potatoes. 

One of my helpers.  Digging potatoes is a treasure hunt!
If you have potato bugs,
which are little orange bugs that defoliate potato plants, knocking them into
soapy water is a great way to dispose of them safely.  Knocking almost any insect into soapy water
will kill it; just make sure you correctly identify it as a pest first. 
My other helper.  These girls know where potatoes come from!


I giggle to
myself as I knock Japanese beetles off my blackberries, grape vines, apple
trees, and roses into a bucket of plain water to give to the chickens.  I call it “chicken bobbing for apples” because
I set the bucket of water in the midst of the hens, and they gleefully consume
the Japanese beetles so they can, later, turn them into eggs.  See a video of this here. It’s best to pick
Japanese beetles and other insects that fly to escape capture in the morning,
when the dew remains on the plants, because they can’t fly well when their
wings are wet.
 
I avoid using
chemical pesticides, and I never apply pesticides to the entire garden.  Whenever I apply pesticides, chemical or
organic, I apply them to kill a specific pest that I have identified
correctly.  Whatever pesticide I apply
can also kill bees and other beneficial insects, and spraying the entire garden
will kill all insects. 

Most of the
time, pests I attempt to control with pesticides are eating the leaves of the plant,
not the blossoms, and bees visit the blossoms of the plant and have incidental
contact with the leaves of the plant.  I
can also wait until the plant has stopped blooming, because bees will stop
visiting the plant when it has stopped blooming, and apply pesticides
then. 

Japanese beetles
are devouring my grapes.  The plants
aren’t blooming anymore, because the deer ate the blossoms and many
leaves.  The poor plants began to grow
new leaves and now Japanese beetles are eating the new growth.  The chickens have enjoyed several episodes of
“bobbing for apples” with those beetles, and I applied diatomaceous earth, a
naturally occurring pesticide made from fossilized diatoms that works by
dehydrating insects, to the leaves.  If
the Japanese beetles persist in their attack on my grapes, I may apply a
chemical pesticide, because if I don’t stop the beetles the plants may
die.
 
I use Sluggo®
and containers of beer to drown slugs and snails, and I use Bacillus thuringiensis,
or BT, to kill caterpillars.  I pick off
large tomato hornworms, the scary-looking, but harmless to people, green worms
that can defoliate tomatoes and feed them to my chickens.  Correctly identify caterpillars; Monarch
butterfly caterpillars eat parsley, but I allow them to eat my parsley so that
I can enjoy butterflies later. 

How is your
garden?