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Grow Your Own Artichokes

I have finally figured out how to cook fresh artichokes. I began growing them in my garden a few years ago, but the ones I cooked were too tough to eat. I had never cooked fresh artichokes before growing the plants, so I didn’t really understand how much work is involved in preparing them for eating; the ones I had enjoyed all came in cans. 


Artichokes originated in the Mediterranean, and they are used to a dry climate without severe winters. In the US, commercial farms grow artichokes in California, along with other Mediterranean native plants that don’t tolerate SC’s climate, like olives. So I wasn’t sure if they’d live here or not, although I read enough about them to determine it might be possible.  I bought some seeds from Heavenly Seed, a company that sells seeds that do well in South Carolina.
Happy, healthy, artichoke plants

The first year, thinking that hot, humid summers would threaten the plants more than our winters, I started the seeds in the summer and set them out in the fall. They were still small when winter began, and the winter weather killed them. In the spring, I started more seeds, and set out the plants as soon as I could. They grew all summer, and were fairly large when winter began. I mulched them, and they survived the winter. The plants thrive in my garden, and now I have three large plants. 

If you live in the South and start seeds now, you should have enough time to get the quickly-growing plants large enough to survive next winter, especially if you place a thick layer of mulch around the roots. If you have artichoke-growing friends, it’s also possible to get a sprout from the side of their plant, including the roots, and plant it in your own garden, just as you would any other perennial. 

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Artichoke that’s ready to pick at the top, with smaller bud below
The three plants provide me with plenty of artichokes. The edible portion of the artichoke is actually a flower bud. If the gardener does not pick the artichoke, it flowers into a purple thistle-like bloom; the plant would make a beautiful addition to a perennial flower bed.
 
Like most plants, artichokes like rich, well-drained soil. Natives of the Mediterranean’s dry climate, they are pickier about drainage than many plants, so don’t plant them where there roots will be in soggy soil. Mulch them to prevent weeds, and water them when the soil dries until the plants are established. After they are established, they are as easy to maintain as any other perennial. Cut the artichokes when they are the size you desire, just as you might pick flower buds before the flower opens. When you tire of artichokes, let the buds open and flower.
Trimmed whole artichokes steaming in preparation for cooking
Many cookbooks have recipes for preparing fresh artichokes, or directions are available here. I won’t try to tell you how to prepare them here, but I’ll share the obstacles that caused me to serve some guests tough artichokes: you must cook whole artichokes for about 45 minutes before they are tender enough to eat, and you must cook the hearts about 20 minutes before they are tender enough. Even if you plan to cook them in some other way by grilling them or stuffing them, you still must steam them for 30-45 minutes first. I did not want to steam lovely fresh vegetables so long, but you must or they are inedible. You will also feel like you are wasting a lot of the artichoke, but you aren’t, you’re just discarding the inedible portion. Someone must have been very hungry when he or she decided to eat an artichoke for the first time.
Battered and fried artichoke hearts.  I’m from the South, and I can’t help it: this is my favorite way to eat them so far.  I steamed them for about 20 minutes before frying them.
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It’s Time to Read Seed Catalogs by the Fire

It has been so warm this winter, with the exception of a few
days last week, that I have not been able to engage in one of my favorite winter
activities: reading seed catalogs while I sit by the fire.  I have still read them, of course, but without
a fire, something seems to be missing.  While
I enjoy the fire, I organize the seed I have left from last year, and I decide
which varieties I will order for the garden this year.     Packages of seeds cost a few dollars, and it
is easy to experiment with many different varieties of plants to figure out
which ones are happiest in your garden.    
Two years ago, I ordered some fruit trees and bushes from
Stark Brothers’ Nursery (
www.starkbros.com or
1.800.325.4180) and I am pleased with their products and service.  As soon as I get my soil ready, I will order
some more fruit trees so I can expand my orchard. 

I do not think I have room to cram in any more perennials
now, but perennials from Bluestone Perennials, (
www.bluestoneperennials.com or
1.800.852.5243) fill my garden. They no longer sell perennials in three-packs; instead,
they sell one larger plant for a lower price than the three packs.  The catalog gives cultural information on nearly
any perennial commonly grown in the US.

I have not ever actually ordered anything from White Flower
Farm,
www.whiteflowerfarm.com or
1.800.503.9624, but their catalog has unusual and beautiful plants.  I found out about them from a Martha Stewart
book years ago, and they appear to be a good, although expensive, nursery.

Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply (www.GrowOrganic.com or 1.888.784.1722), is
a California company with nearly every gardening/farming item imaginable.  Peaceful Valley’s catalog is good for
information, obscure organic pest control products, and season-extension
products. 

For seeds, I order from Seed Savers Exchange, (www.seedsaversexchange.org or (562)
382.5990), a nonprofit organization from Iowa which sells exclusively heirloom
seeds and John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds (
www.kitchengardenseeds.com or
(860) 567.6086), a catalog that is a work of art and provides detailed planting
and culinary information. 

The only truly local seed supplier is Heavenly Seed LLC (www.heavenlyseed.net or 864.209.8283) out
of Anderson.  It provides the least
glamorous catalog but the most generous amounts of seed for the money; I buy
most of my seeds from Heavenly Seed.    

Johnny’s Seeds, www.johnnyseeds.com
gives good cultural information for gardeners, and Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds,
(417.924.8917 or
www.rareseeds.com, has
one of the largest collections of heirloom seeds around.  Pinetree Garden Seeds (207.926.3400 or
www.superseeds.com) sells small,
inexpensive packets of seeds that are useful for small gardens or for trying
out many varieties of seeds. 

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Build a Cold Frame for Ongoing Winter Harvest





Although they have not need its protection yet this winter,
my lettuces and spinach are happily growing inside the cold frame while we wait
for cold weather.  I planted them inside
the box in September with the lid open so the warm weather did not roast them.  Now, when freezing weather threatens, I can
close the lid to the box in the late afternoon, the glass lid will hold the
heat inside, and I will have fresh greens the next day that are unharmed by
frost. 

My husband and I made my cold frame cover from a discarded
shower door.  Any glass or Plexiglas door
or window would work; the glass allows sunshine and heat to reach the plants
inside the cold frame.  My shower door
came with the hinge attached which we use to open and close the frame.  If yours does not have a hinge, you could
slide it up and down as needed and prop it with a stick; a covering that is lightweight,
like Plexiglas, would probably be the best choice.  When the lid is raised, make sure to attach
it to the ground in some way so that strong gusts of wind do not suddenly close
it; the glass on one of my frames shattered last winter and I will have to
cover the frame with plastic this winter. 
Winter greens grow inside the cold frame

We made the sides of my cold frame out of treated
lumber.  We caulked the joints and put
some weather-stripping along the top of the frame to prevent drafts.  The back of the cold frame is about 18 inches
high, and it slopes down to the front at about a 40-degree angle toward the
southern sky; the front is about 8 inches high. 
This slope is supposed to maximize the amount of captured sunlight.

Options besides boards include stacked hay bales, concrete
blocks, or landscape timbers.  Plug as
many cracks as you can.  Gardener’s
Supply Company carries prefabricated cold frames; harvesting your own salad greens instead of
buying them will offset the purchase price quickly.

 Place your cold frame directly on the ground, fill your cold
frame with compost-enriched soil, and plant the seeds or transplants.  Because of the greenhouse-like moist
environment, seeds sprout quickly and are the most economical choice.  Water the soil when it begins to dry out and
fertilize the plants as you would in your garden. 

If the weather forecast is for temperatures in the high 40s
or above with sun, prop open the lid of your cold frame to vent excessive heat
that might burn the plants.  I have two
sticks, one to open the lid just a crack and the other to open it wide for
harvest and for very warm days.  If you
will not be home, prop the lid open a crack; they have a better chance of
surviving the cold weather we get than an afternoon in with temperatures in the
sixties closed inside the frame. Lettuce and spinach tolerate temperatures down
to the mid-twenties without harm in the open garden; I close my cold frame on
nights when the temperature dips into the low twenties and teens.   

The best plants for a cold frame are lettuces, spinach,
collards, and other cool-season greens. 
Carrots, beets, and parsnips also like the protected environment.  Depending on your cold frame’s interior
height, you might also be able to grow broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage.  I also “harden off” transplants, or provide a
protected area outside for plants to become gradually accustomed to the
outdoors, before I set them out in the garden in the cold frame.
Happy salad greens

When you are home during the holidays, maybe you can find
time to make yourself or the gardener on your list a cold frame as a belated Christmas
gift.