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Help Your Garden Survive Summer

It is just too hot to contemplate planting anything, but gardeners must help the plants that are roasting in the heat survive. The rain that fell Sunday afternoon may bring our gardens through this heat wave.

My garden is holding up fairly well to the heat because of water conservation strategies I have employed through the years. I work every year to improve my soil because soil that contains lots of organic matter holds more moisture than sand or clay.

Mulch is my ally against drought and heat. Plant roots appreciate shade from temperatures over 100˚F as much as people do, and a thick layer of mulch insulates and cools the roots, and holds in available soil moisture. I choose cheap and plentiful sources of mulch over expensive and hard to get, and so I use partially rotten hay, leaves, grass clippings, newspapers, cardboard, and pine straw for mulch. Mulch also keeps the weeds from growing so I do not need to go out in this heat to weed the garden.

When I water my lawn and garden, I water them deeply and infrequently, and I water them only when rain does not fall. I do not sprinkle them every day because shallow, frequent watering encourages the plants to develop shallow roots that cannot tolerate drought. These lazy roots love their life of leisure without having to search for water. Like lazy humans, however, they are helpless when their water is not given to them. Deep, infrequent watering, which mimics natural rainfall, makes the roots of the plant search deep in the soil for moisture. When rain does not fall, the deep roots can find water in the soil for much longer than roots used to easy provision of water.

Drip irrigation is the best way to get irrigation water to the roots of plants. Sprinklers put most of the water on the leaves of the plants, where it dries up before doing much good. Sprinklers also promote disease by wetting foliage. I do use a sprinkler in the garden, but I try to keep it off my tomatoes and other plants prone to disease.

When it rains, either turn off your automatic lawn sprinklers, or buy a rain sensor to automatically stop the sprinklers if rain falls. I turn on my sprinklers manually when the grass looks shriveled.   And please, please, adjust the sprinkler heads so you water plants instead of asphalt.  I do hate driving by commercial landscaping and having my car bathed by water that’s supposed to be going on the plants.

Ideally, gardens thrive best on an inch of rain per week, so if an inch of rain falls from the sky there is no need to waste precious fresh water by watering the lawn that week. I turn on the drip irrigation to my tomatoes and run it for an hour or two once or twice a week, if it does not rain, which gives the tomatoes the consistent soil moisture they love.

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Installing drip irrigation is fun and easy

My husband has been holding out on me. Through experience at jobs, and by reading the packages while working at a hardware store in high school and in college, he can complete many household improvement tasks, although he tries to keep his knowledge hidden from me as much as possible so his “honey-do” list does not lengthen. Although he’s watched me drag hoses to water my plants and saw my soaker hoses break from dry-rot, he never told me that while he worked on John’s Island, SC, at a palm tree farm for a month or so after college, he installed drip irrigation around 150 palm trees in the midst of a Lowcountry summer.


I have read about drip irrigation, and although it sounded like an efficient way to water plants, I thought the installation process was nearly as complicated as that of the one installed by professionals that waters my lawn. I decided to try it, though, because I hate dragging hoses. I began with a starter kit. My husband, while helping me, revealed his seemingly miraculous skill in drip irrigation installation and had to confess the origin of the skill. After he helped me install the first few emitters, I completed the rest of the system.


I like drip irrigation because it provides slow drips of water to plants, at a rate of ½ gallon to 3 gallons per hour, and the water does not run off or evaporate like water from sprinklers. It’s inexpensive, although it does cost more than buying a soaker hose to move around; to water a small garden you could probably get all the supplies you need for under $50, and you can reuse them next year. Calculate in the cost of all the water you won’t waste with other systems, the weeds you won’t encourage by watering them while you water your plants, and avoiding the aggravation of dragging hoses all summer, and it’s a bargain.


Attach the main hose to a pressure regulator, which is attached to a garden hose or the house faucet. Off this main hose, install branches with emitters that drip onto each plant. For a row of beans, for example, use a hose with perforations to drip water onto the plants. For shrubs, put individual emitters in the hose for each plant. Attach the hose to the ground with landscape stakes and cover everything with mulch. Drain the system before winter comes, and leave it in place year-round.


I recommend buying a starter kit, which provides diagrams and instructions. Also, look at www.irrigationtutorials.com and www.dripirrigation.com. The public library and bookstores also have books. Once I understood the basic idea behind the system and could identify the parts, I installed our system easily, and it’s fun, kind of like playing with Tinkertoys.