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It’s Time to Start Onion Seeds

As we prepare to move, we are doing many “lasts.”  I feel this most strongly in the garden, where I complete the last harvests and the last plantings.  The last summer garden planting happened last summer.  I knew I would not plant tomatoes and beans this year.  The date for the last cool-weather planting has been a bit nebulous because we weren’t sure exactly when we would move.

The last onion and garlic planting happened in the fall, and I completed the last onion harvest on a hot, dry day: something that has been elusive this spring.

Onions are easy to grow but they take many months to reach maturity if you start them from seed.  Sometime last July, nearly a year before I took them out of the ground, I started the tiny black seeds in a flat of soil.

I sprinkle them thinly on moist potting soil and cover them with about 1/8″ of soil.  I water them gently, and set them in the shade to germinate.  In July, when I normally start my onion seeds, the temperature is too hot outdoors for speedy germination, so I might set them indoors until they sprout.  Then I move them outdoors, ideally into a spot that receives morning sun and afternoon shade, and I keep them watered.

After I took this photograph, I gave the seedlings a haircut.  The black seed shells stay on the tips of the plants and cause them to lean over.  Cutting them allows the plants to put energy into growing the root system and to develop sturdier stems.

 

I have also started onion plants indoors under grow lights  and I have started them outdoors under shade cloth, depending on the weather and on how much time I have to tend to them.

I start my onions from seed because I want to grow storage onions, not the sweet “Vidalia” type (I’m not calling them Vidalia onions, because that’s against the law unless you live in a certain geographical area in Georgia.  “Vidalia” or “sweet” onions are large slicing onions.  Walla Walla or Texas Sweet are another name for them.

Stores sell them individually, usually, as toppings for hamburgers or for people to eat raw.  Sometimes you also see bags of them.  The bags of onions you buy to dice and saute to make your spaghetti sauce are most likely storage onions.  The sweet onions will keep only a few months, but the storage onions will last for many months if properly cured and stored.

I don’t like raw onions, but I do need the flavor of the onions in many of the foods I cook.  I use several onions a week in cooking.  This article from Bonnie Plants gives more details about selecting onion plants.

I began writing this article back in May, and then we moved.  My onions are now cured and the supply is greatly diminished.  Now that I have more time to write since my life has settled some, I am reminded that it is time to start seeds for onions if you live in the South, or in any place around the country where you don’t get extremely cold winters.  I can only really offer advice on specific planting times for the South.  I will have to go through my seeds, jumbled in a box in the freezer during the move, and figure out if I need to order more seeds.

This chart from Johnny Seeds gives details about which onion seed is correct for your climate and purposes.  After you choose a variety from the chart, go to this page from Johnny’s for details on planting your chosen variety.  As I visit Johnny’s to research links for this article, I see that they list a variety for the South that is new this year.

Check back with me for more details about High Point Farm.

 

 

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Build a Cold Frame for Ongoing Winter Harvest





Although they have not need its protection yet this winter,
my lettuces and spinach are happily growing inside the cold frame while we wait
for cold weather.  I planted them inside
the box in September with the lid open so the warm weather did not roast them.  Now, when freezing weather threatens, I can
close the lid to the box in the late afternoon, the glass lid will hold the
heat inside, and I will have fresh greens the next day that are unharmed by
frost. 

My husband and I made my cold frame cover from a discarded
shower door.  Any glass or Plexiglas door
or window would work; the glass allows sunshine and heat to reach the plants
inside the cold frame.  My shower door
came with the hinge attached which we use to open and close the frame.  If yours does not have a hinge, you could
slide it up and down as needed and prop it with a stick; a covering that is lightweight,
like Plexiglas, would probably be the best choice.  When the lid is raised, make sure to attach
it to the ground in some way so that strong gusts of wind do not suddenly close
it; the glass on one of my frames shattered last winter and I will have to
cover the frame with plastic this winter. 
Winter greens grow inside the cold frame

We made the sides of my cold frame out of treated
lumber.  We caulked the joints and put
some weather-stripping along the top of the frame to prevent drafts.  The back of the cold frame is about 18 inches
high, and it slopes down to the front at about a 40-degree angle toward the
southern sky; the front is about 8 inches high. 
This slope is supposed to maximize the amount of captured sunlight.

Options besides boards include stacked hay bales, concrete
blocks, or landscape timbers.  Plug as
many cracks as you can.  Gardener’s
Supply Company carries prefabricated cold frames; harvesting your own salad greens instead of
buying them will offset the purchase price quickly.

 Place your cold frame directly on the ground, fill your cold
frame with compost-enriched soil, and plant the seeds or transplants.  Because of the greenhouse-like moist
environment, seeds sprout quickly and are the most economical choice.  Water the soil when it begins to dry out and
fertilize the plants as you would in your garden. 

If the weather forecast is for temperatures in the high 40s
or above with sun, prop open the lid of your cold frame to vent excessive heat
that might burn the plants.  I have two
sticks, one to open the lid just a crack and the other to open it wide for
harvest and for very warm days.  If you
will not be home, prop the lid open a crack; they have a better chance of
surviving the cold weather we get than an afternoon in with temperatures in the
sixties closed inside the frame. Lettuce and spinach tolerate temperatures down
to the mid-twenties without harm in the open garden; I close my cold frame on
nights when the temperature dips into the low twenties and teens.   

The best plants for a cold frame are lettuces, spinach,
collards, and other cool-season greens. 
Carrots, beets, and parsnips also like the protected environment.  Depending on your cold frame’s interior
height, you might also be able to grow broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage.  I also “harden off” transplants, or provide a
protected area outside for plants to become gradually accustomed to the
outdoors, before I set them out in the garden in the cold frame.
Happy salad greens

When you are home during the holidays, maybe you can find
time to make yourself or the gardener on your list a cold frame as a belated Christmas
gift.