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Help Your Garden Survive Summer

It is just too hot to contemplate planting anything, but gardeners must help the plants that are roasting in the heat survive. The rain that fell Sunday afternoon may bring our gardens through this heat wave.

My garden is holding up fairly well to the heat because of water conservation strategies I have employed through the years. I work every year to improve my soil because soil that contains lots of organic matter holds more moisture than sand or clay.

Mulch is my ally against drought and heat. Plant roots appreciate shade from temperatures over 100˚F as much as people do, and a thick layer of mulch insulates and cools the roots, and holds in available soil moisture. I choose cheap and plentiful sources of mulch over expensive and hard to get, and so I use partially rotten hay, leaves, grass clippings, newspapers, cardboard, and pine straw for mulch. Mulch also keeps the weeds from growing so I do not need to go out in this heat to weed the garden.

When I water my lawn and garden, I water them deeply and infrequently, and I water them only when rain does not fall. I do not sprinkle them every day because shallow, frequent watering encourages the plants to develop shallow roots that cannot tolerate drought. These lazy roots love their life of leisure without having to search for water. Like lazy humans, however, they are helpless when their water is not given to them. Deep, infrequent watering, which mimics natural rainfall, makes the roots of the plant search deep in the soil for moisture. When rain does not fall, the deep roots can find water in the soil for much longer than roots used to easy provision of water.

Drip irrigation is the best way to get irrigation water to the roots of plants. Sprinklers put most of the water on the leaves of the plants, where it dries up before doing much good. Sprinklers also promote disease by wetting foliage. I do use a sprinkler in the garden, but I try to keep it off my tomatoes and other plants prone to disease.

When it rains, either turn off your automatic lawn sprinklers, or buy a rain sensor to automatically stop the sprinklers if rain falls. I turn on my sprinklers manually when the grass looks shriveled.   And please, please, adjust the sprinkler heads so you water plants instead of asphalt.  I do hate driving by commercial landscaping and having my car bathed by water that’s supposed to be going on the plants.

Ideally, gardens thrive best on an inch of rain per week, so if an inch of rain falls from the sky there is no need to waste precious fresh water by watering the lawn that week. I turn on the drip irrigation to my tomatoes and run it for an hour or two once or twice a week, if it does not rain, which gives the tomatoes the consistent soil moisture they love.

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Weeds Love the Warm Weather Too


It is true confession time. 
I recommend organic gardening methods, and I practice them at home.  Usually, anyway.  I have resorted to killing the weeds in the
lawn with a broadleaf weed killer, and I have used a non-selective chemical
herbicide on some areas where the weeds have just gotten out of control. 


I do not like to use chemicals, but sometimes I find them
necessary to maintain order in the garden. 
This winter, the weeds have been worse than usual because of the mild
weather.  I tried using the chickens as
weed-controllers, and they did a fine job of mowing the weeds and fertilizing
the lawn.  The problem is, if I left them
on the lawn long enough to dig up and remove the weeds, they would also dig up
the sod.  So, along with healthy sod, I
have lovely green patches of extra-healthy weeds where they sojourned. 


I can mow the lawn to control the weeds, but to control the
weeds, it would probably require several mowings of weeds before the actual grass
gets tall enough to mow.  That will cause
pollution from the gasoline engine of the lawnmower that would probably equal
or exceed the pollution caused by the weed killer.


The most environmentally friendly solution would be to
abandon the lawn for a meadow, or to let the weeds grow tall without worrying
about it, or let the chickens mow the lawn constantly.  None of those options suits most people,
including me, although when I no longer have children who need a lawn to play
on, I may reduce its size.  Even if I let
the weeds grow tall, though, they would go to seed, which would spread more
weeds into my garden areas, where they are definitely intolerable.  Maybe I should get a flock of sheep to mow
the lawn…


When I apply the chemicals, I read and follow the directions
carefully.  I make sure I don’t apply too
much, and I don’t put them down just before a rain so they wash away.  I keep children and pets off the lawn for at
least 24 hours after their application.     


Part of my weed problem is due to the very warm winter we’ve
had which has allowed the weeds to grow all winter.  Another reason for my problems is that in
September, we had 100 trees cut, and the sudden absence of both their shade and
the competition from their roots for moisture has allowed long-dormant weeds to
flourish.  I hope my perennial garden,
also free of the competition and shade, will also flourish.  I have neglected some weeding chores in favor
of preparing my newly cleared land for an orchard, and I have not been as
vigilant about getting mulch out as in past years.


I don’t use weed killers on food crops, and I used them only
when I have given up hope of eliminating weeds any other way.  I do not apply them routinely.  I have two giant mountains of mulch from the
trimmings of the 100 trees we cut, and over the past couple of weeks, I have
spread numerous loads of mulch on paths and in flowerbeds.  From my father and from a horse-keeping
neighbor, I have spoiled hay, and I am in the process of covering the garden
with it after I tilled it. 


Next winter, I hope the wood-chip mulch, which I have put
down heavily, will still retard weeds in the paths and flowerbeds into next
winter.  Winter weeds are always my
biggest problem, I think because after working hard all summer I want a break
after the frost comes, and I neglect the garden for a while, long enough for
the winter weeds to become established. 
Weeds are the bane of the gardener’s existence, but in some ways, I am
thankful for their presence because they get me out into the garden, working
and exercising, and noticing all the blossoms and new growth I might otherwise
miss.      
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Start a garden this spring

Several methods exist for starting a flower or vegetable garden depending on the time, money, and energy you have available. A few pots are plenty for the beginning gardener; it’s easy to overestimate your abilities and desires when the weather is lovely and cool in April and end up with scorched plants in July. Space probably exists among the shrubs around your home’s foundation for a few plants if you do not want to use pots; potted plants require more attention than those planted in the ground. Make sure your vegetable garden receives six to eight hours of direct sun daily.

For my first garden, I tilled a place in the backyard, added all the compost I could to the already rich, black, sandy loam of the yard, and harvested many vegetables. I have red clay and woods at my current home; my family and I cut trees and purchased soil to fill the raised bed we made out of the felled trees. Add as much compost as you can afford to the soil in your garden site.

Call your local county extension service for soil testing information. Soil test results tell you the specific nutrients, including lime, your soil needs; adding the amendments indicated by the results will help you have a successful garden.
I prefer to use the no-till method I borrowed from Ruth Stout who wrote the book “How to have a Green Thumb without an Aching Back.” Lay 6-8 sheets of newspaper or cardboard directly over the grass and overlap the edges. On top of the paper, place 3-4 inches (or more) of compost or manure; then add 4-6 inches of mulch.

Mulch can be any substance that biodegrades easily; don’t use synthetic mulch or wood chips. I try to obtain free mulch so I can use it lavishly; I prefer old hay and bags of leaves from the side of the road. You can immediately dig planting holes in the compost or you can leave the “pie” alone for three to six months and the earthworms will till the soil for you. Mulch your garden lavishly regardless of the method you use to begin it; I pull a few weeds here and there but do not have to devote much time to the task because of the mulch.

When you begin planting, meet the plants’ needs for sun, shade, and moisture. The Southern Living Garden Book is a good resource for plant information. Make sure what you are reading is specific to the South since a plant’s ability to tolerate heat is as important as its ability to tolerate cold. Folks who move here from up North kill lilacs and lettuce in July on a regular basis.