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Happy Cows Make Good Milk

Happy Cow Creamery, in Pelzer, SC, also known as Twelve
Aprils Dairy, was an ordinary dairy until the April morning more than twenty
years ago when the cows broke down a gate to pursue the greener grass on the
other side of the fence.  Farmer Tom
Trantham was initially so angry at his cows that he left them alone in the
pasture and went inside to watch TV, something a farmer never has time to do in
the middle of the day.
A “happy cow” chewing her cud.
 
His farm was nearly bankrupt because of declining milk
prices and rising feed prices.  He
operated a conventional dairy where the cows ate silage and grain and remained
inside on a concrete floor.  He was
nearly ready to give the bank the farm and look for other ways to earn a living
that day the cows escaped, although he desperately wanted to farm.
That evening, the cows came to the barn for their milking,
and they gave an extra 200 pounds of milk. 
All the fresh air, green grass, and sunshine allowed their bodies to do
what nature intended:  produce milk.  Excited by the increased amount of milk, Farmer
Trantham researched rotational grazing, where cows graze fresh paddocks of
grass every day so they get the most nutrients from each plant.  He learned which grasses grow best during
which times of the year, and how long to let the cows graze the grass before
moving them on.  The name Twelve Aprils
Dairy came from his observation that, with careful pasture management and
judicious use of his own hay and silage, he could produce the bounty of milk he
got on April pasture twelve months out of the year.
 
He allows the cows to eat the grass they were designed to
eat, and lets the sunshine, fresh air, and opportunity for exercise help his
cows remain healthy and happy.  Twice a
day, the cows line up by the barn, each carrying an udder full of about 60
pounds of milk.  They jostle each other
and compete for the first place in line, although they usually get in line at
about the same place every day.  They
knock at the door with their noses while they wait, saying “Hey, don’t forget
me!”  After the cows are milked, which
takes about three hours twice a day, the cows go back into a pasture where they
can graze the grass.
“Let me in!” she says as she knocks on the door .
I visited the farm with my girls to see where their milk
comes from.  The farm offers tours and
has a retail shop where they sell milk and other dairy, meat, and vegetable
products.  They sell whole, pasteurized,
non-homogenized milk, which means that potentially harmful bacteria are killed
by pasteurization but the cream still rises to the top of the milk.
Farmer Trantham has turned a farm on the brink of bankruptcy
into a thriving business by using fewer purchased, off-farm inputs and by
selling his milk directly to the public. 
Most dairies sell their milk to a company, which mingles it with the
milk of other dairies, bottles it, and sells it to grocery stores.  Farmer Trantham sells his milk off the farm
and to small stores, like Rosewood Market and 14 Carrots in the Columbia, South Carolina, area. Wil-Moore Farms , in the Lugoff
area, at 803-438-3097, also carries the milk.
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A few weeks ago, I attended the South Carolina Agriculture
Council meeting to hear a discussion about “GMOs, Organic Farming, and Organic
Certification.”  Readers of this column
know I am biased against the use of GMOs or, genetically modified organisms, in
agriculture.  It seems somehow wrong to
insert the genes of a flounder, for example, into a tomato so that the tomato
will tolerate colder temperatures, and then to eat this “Franken food.”

 Dan Pitts, the
Technical Development Representative from Monsanto, the company that was one of
the pioneers of GMO agriculture, gave presentation on using GMOs in agriculture
to “grow better crops and use less resources to do so.”  With GMO corn, for example, scientists insert
the pesticide BT, or bacillus thuringiensis, into the corn genes so that when a
caterpillar eats the corn, it also eats the pesticide, which kills the
caterpillar.  Farmers do not have to
spray pesticides on the fields, and, as Mr. Pitts illustrated with statistics, farmers
no longer put millions of pounds of chemicals into the environment.  Corn yields have increased.  With Roundup® Ready Soybeans, farmers do not
have to till the soil and cause erosion; they spray the herbicide, which kills
the weeds but not the soybeans.

I asked Mr. Pitts about reports I have heard about pollen
from GMO plants blowing into fields of plants that are not GMO, and producing
plants that have the GMO genes.  He said,
“Coexistence of different agricultural production methods working effectively
side by side is well established and has a long, successful history in
agriculture.”  He also says, “according
to USDA’s organic rules, the inadvertent presence of GMO in an organic canola
field would not constitute a violation of the organic program regulations nor
render the canola ineligible for organic certification.” 

One of the arguments in favor of using GMOs is that we need
increased food to feed our increasing population, and without GMOs to increase
the yield, people will starve.  What has
always been interesting to me about this argument is that the commonly produced
GMO plants: field corn, soybeans, cotton, and tobacco are not edible in their
unprocessed state.  Field corn is fed to
animals on feedlots or turned into high-fructose corn syrup; some soybeans may
be turned into tofu but most of them are turned into oil or other processed
products.  Mr. Pitts said that Monsanto
has recently developed a GMO sweet corn that will be edible in its natural state.

For a different perspective on farming, Eric McClam, a
Tulane graduate in architecture and manager of City Roots farm in Columbia, discussed
their farming practices.  The three-acre
farm, in the Rosewood Neighborhood of Columbia, on property owned by the City
of Columbia, “produce[s] clean, healthy, sustainably grown products while
enhancing and educating our community about the benefits of locally grown food,
composting, vermicomposting and other environmentally friendly farming
practices,” according to the website
www.cityroots.org. 

City Roots won the 2010 Downtown Pinnacle award from the
International Downtown Association.  More
than 600 cities competed for the award, which recognizes innovative development
in downtown areas of cities.  City Roots
Farm and the City of Columbia are proud of this recognition of their
partnership in using land that might otherwise be wasted in an urban area. 

Not only do they use no GMO seeds, but they also use no
pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers except manure produced by the laying
hens and compost made from crop wastes and vegetable refuse from grocery stores
and restaurants.  Although they follow
organic farming practices, McClam says, “Organic certification does not make
sense for us because we know our end user and can talk with them about farming
practices directly.  Organic
certification for 60 varieties of plants is a lot of paperwork.”  The farm sells at farmers markets, local
stores, and local restaurants. 

Through succession planting, where there is another crop
ready to go into the ground as soon as one comes out, and organic, sustainable
practices, City Roots produces copious amounts of locally grown, nutritious
food for the people of Columbia, without using GMOS or buying and applying
pesticides and fertilizers.  Not buying
pesticides or fertilizers keeps their costs down, and gives the farm more money
to spend on its biggest expense: human labor to care for the plants.    

What a contrast City Roots is from a sterile Midwestern
cornfield where nothing but corn grows and farmers have to tend the crop in
machines that cost hundreds of thousands of dollars.  I do not know the solution to feeding the
world, but GMOs scare me.  Mr. Pitts says
that Monsanto did many safety tests to make sure the GMOs will not harm the
environment or people, but the technology has only existed since the
1980s.  How often have things we thought
were safe turned out to be dangerous after the passage of time?