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My garlic supply for the year is safe

Garlic harvest of main crop. Mostly ‘Music’ garlic.

This garlic harvest is unique.  It is the last garlic harvest from my old garden.  Planting it was my first gardening effort during my recovery from a serious accident.  My aunt dug the rows for me, and my mother helped me plant the cloves.  Both of them told me I needed to be resting instead of planting garlic, but since I have helped them with crazy projects, they understood my need to get this garlic in the ground before it was too late.  We got the garlic in the ground in late October or early November.

I ordered the original garlic from Peaceful Valley Farm Supply back in the fall of 2016.  I grew out that garlic during the fall and winter of 2016-2017, and enjoyed an abundant harvest.  As much as it pained me, I saved back the biggest, sturdiest, and healthiest bulbs for seed garlic, and we ate the rest.  I even sold a few bulbs, and I gave some as gifts.  I stored the bulbs in the cupboard and away from moisture and daylight.

During my recovery from my illness, I broke apart the bulbs into individual cloves.  Then I soaked them in an aromatic mixture of fish emulsion and the cheapest vodka available.  The fish emulsion gives them a boost of nutrients and the vodka kills bacteria and fungi.  People use baking soda, rubbing alcohol, peroxide, and other things to achieve similar results.  This blog post describes some other methods of soaking them.

I marked off the rows, about 8 inches apart and four inches deep, and after my aunt dug them I sprinkled rotten chicken litter in the rows.  I put the cloves into the ground pointy side up, and covered them with soil.  I did not mulch them, and I battled weeds all winter.  I recommend mulching them with straw or leaves.

In June, as the leaves began to turn brown, I harvested the garlic.  In my early garlic-growing years I have waited until the leaves turned entirely brown to harvest them, but by then the garlic bulb had begun to break apart.  Hardneck garlic, which is what I plant because I find that it is easier to cook with the larger individual cloves of hardneck garlic than the smaller ones of softneck garlic. This is a short explanation of the difference between the two.

Elephant garlic

I also grew some elephant garlic.  I got it in a sampler pack from Peaceful Valley.  I don’t really like it because it’s not as pungent as ordinary garlic so I have to put more minced garlic in a dish to get the same flavor.  I love it roasted on homemade bread, though.  It has a much larger root system than ordinary garlic and so I will need a chisel, I think, to get the roots to let go of the clay.

To cure the garlic, I am giving it daily sunbathing time on dry days.  It rests inside the shed at night and on rainy days.  When the green leaves become brown and crunchy, I will remove them and store the garlic in my pantry for the winter.

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It’s Time to Read Seed Catalogs by the Fire

It has been so warm this winter, with the exception of a few
days last week, that I have not been able to engage in one of my favorite winter
activities: reading seed catalogs while I sit by the fire.  I have still read them, of course, but without
a fire, something seems to be missing.  While
I enjoy the fire, I organize the seed I have left from last year, and I decide
which varieties I will order for the garden this year.     Packages of seeds cost a few dollars, and it
is easy to experiment with many different varieties of plants to figure out
which ones are happiest in your garden.    
Two years ago, I ordered some fruit trees and bushes from
Stark Brothers’ Nursery (
www.starkbros.com or
1.800.325.4180) and I am pleased with their products and service.  As soon as I get my soil ready, I will order
some more fruit trees so I can expand my orchard. 

I do not think I have room to cram in any more perennials
now, but perennials from Bluestone Perennials, (
www.bluestoneperennials.com or
1.800.852.5243) fill my garden. They no longer sell perennials in three-packs; instead,
they sell one larger plant for a lower price than the three packs.  The catalog gives cultural information on nearly
any perennial commonly grown in the US.

I have not ever actually ordered anything from White Flower
Farm,
www.whiteflowerfarm.com or
1.800.503.9624, but their catalog has unusual and beautiful plants.  I found out about them from a Martha Stewart
book years ago, and they appear to be a good, although expensive, nursery.

Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply (www.GrowOrganic.com or 1.888.784.1722), is
a California company with nearly every gardening/farming item imaginable.  Peaceful Valley’s catalog is good for
information, obscure organic pest control products, and season-extension
products. 

For seeds, I order from Seed Savers Exchange, (www.seedsaversexchange.org or (562)
382.5990), a nonprofit organization from Iowa which sells exclusively heirloom
seeds and John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds (
www.kitchengardenseeds.com or
(860) 567.6086), a catalog that is a work of art and provides detailed planting
and culinary information. 

The only truly local seed supplier is Heavenly Seed LLC (www.heavenlyseed.net or 864.209.8283) out
of Anderson.  It provides the least
glamorous catalog but the most generous amounts of seed for the money; I buy
most of my seeds from Heavenly Seed.    

Johnny’s Seeds, www.johnnyseeds.com
gives good cultural information for gardeners, and Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds,
(417.924.8917 or
www.rareseeds.com, has
one of the largest collections of heirloom seeds around.  Pinetree Garden Seeds (207.926.3400 or
www.superseeds.com) sells small,
inexpensive packets of seeds that are useful for small gardens or for trying
out many varieties of seeds. 

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Build a Cold Frame for Ongoing Winter Harvest





Although they have not need its protection yet this winter,
my lettuces and spinach are happily growing inside the cold frame while we wait
for cold weather.  I planted them inside
the box in September with the lid open so the warm weather did not roast them.  Now, when freezing weather threatens, I can
close the lid to the box in the late afternoon, the glass lid will hold the
heat inside, and I will have fresh greens the next day that are unharmed by
frost. 

My husband and I made my cold frame cover from a discarded
shower door.  Any glass or Plexiglas door
or window would work; the glass allows sunshine and heat to reach the plants
inside the cold frame.  My shower door
came with the hinge attached which we use to open and close the frame.  If yours does not have a hinge, you could
slide it up and down as needed and prop it with a stick; a covering that is lightweight,
like Plexiglas, would probably be the best choice.  When the lid is raised, make sure to attach
it to the ground in some way so that strong gusts of wind do not suddenly close
it; the glass on one of my frames shattered last winter and I will have to
cover the frame with plastic this winter. 
Winter greens grow inside the cold frame

We made the sides of my cold frame out of treated
lumber.  We caulked the joints and put
some weather-stripping along the top of the frame to prevent drafts.  The back of the cold frame is about 18 inches
high, and it slopes down to the front at about a 40-degree angle toward the
southern sky; the front is about 8 inches high. 
This slope is supposed to maximize the amount of captured sunlight.

Options besides boards include stacked hay bales, concrete
blocks, or landscape timbers.  Plug as
many cracks as you can.  Gardener’s
Supply Company carries prefabricated cold frames; harvesting your own salad greens instead of
buying them will offset the purchase price quickly.

 Place your cold frame directly on the ground, fill your cold
frame with compost-enriched soil, and plant the seeds or transplants.  Because of the greenhouse-like moist
environment, seeds sprout quickly and are the most economical choice.  Water the soil when it begins to dry out and
fertilize the plants as you would in your garden. 

If the weather forecast is for temperatures in the high 40s
or above with sun, prop open the lid of your cold frame to vent excessive heat
that might burn the plants.  I have two
sticks, one to open the lid just a crack and the other to open it wide for
harvest and for very warm days.  If you
will not be home, prop the lid open a crack; they have a better chance of
surviving the cold weather we get than an afternoon in with temperatures in the
sixties closed inside the frame. Lettuce and spinach tolerate temperatures down
to the mid-twenties without harm in the open garden; I close my cold frame on
nights when the temperature dips into the low twenties and teens.   

The best plants for a cold frame are lettuces, spinach,
collards, and other cool-season greens. 
Carrots, beets, and parsnips also like the protected environment.  Depending on your cold frame’s interior
height, you might also be able to grow broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage.  I also “harden off” transplants, or provide a
protected area outside for plants to become gradually accustomed to the
outdoors, before I set them out in the garden in the cold frame.
Happy salad greens

When you are home during the holidays, maybe you can find
time to make yourself or the gardener on your list a cold frame as a belated Christmas
gift.